Results from measurements are presented that were collected during a full tidal cycle in the Ems estuary, involving two landers and an anchored research vessel. The conditions were characterized by very weak winds, no wave effects, and low river run-off, so that the state was close to tide-only. We find that the lateral (i.e., cross-slope) transport of water and suspended particulate matter (SPM) much of the time shows a vertically layered structure, which is however subject to sudden transitions. Moreover, even on the small spatial scale of these measurements (i.e., within a distance of 200 m), a strong lateral variability is observed in the circulation patterns. We analyze its dynamics by means of dimensionless parameters. In addition, near-bottom peaks in SPM concentration are observed, notably during early flood. However, these episodic events have little effect on the overall transport of SPM, which involves the whole water column: the measurements show a high vertically integrated SPM signal during late ebb, resulting in an ebb-dominance in the transport at this position in the tidal channel.