Coastal boulder deposits hold the potential to aid in the reconstruction of past extreme wave events. However, commonly used hydrodynamic equations for calculating wave heights from transported boulders can be inaccurate. New and alternative methods need to be explored in an interdisciplinary way to ensure a more complete picture of the phenomenon of boulder transport is achieved. Through the use of a physical experiment, this study aims to investigate the influence of different tsunami wave types, wave parameters and boulder shapes on boulder transport distance. The experimental results also allow for a novel application of dimensional analysis to enable comparisons with other experiments as well as a field case study. In the experiment an elongate irregularly shaped boulder showed transport distances up to 1 m farther than a cuboid shaped boulder under the influence of the same waves. The irregularly shaped boulder had a predominant transport mode of rolling, whereas the cuboid shaped boulder predominantly underwent sliding transport. Tsunami wave type also influenced boulder transport distances, with N-waves frequently showing greater transport than E-waves of a comparable wave steepness. Key offshore wave and boulder parameters were then compared through dimensional analysis using Buckingham's Pi Theorem, enabling comparisons to other datasets to be made. Data from another published experimental study and a field study in Settai, Japan, showed reasonable agreement, particularly for the shorter period field data. These findings emphasize the importance of incorporating boulder shape, wave type, and dimensional analysis into future studies, providing a foundation for more accurate reconstructions of past tsunami events.

This study characterises the flow velocity of individual extreme waves that overtop promenades using the bubble image velocimetry (BIV) technique (Ryu et al., 2005). Experimental tests were carried out in the small-scale wave flume CIEMito, at the Marine Engineering Laboratory (LIM) of the Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya – BarcelonaTech (UPC), and the obtained images were post-processed to calculate the flow velocities. The ultimate objective of the experimental campaign is to develop more precise models for forecasting wave overtopping of structures with an emergent toe, commonly found on sandy beaches and frequently utilized as promenades or waterfronts in most urbanized coastal environments. The NewWave theory (Tromans et al., 1991) was used to simulate the extreme individual wave overtopping in a real random sea state. The NewWave theory establishes a correlation between the expected form of a large wave in a linear sea state and the bulk characteristics of the sea state. Using focused wave groups instead of long-duration irregular wave time series offers several benefits. It improves the ability to repeat experiments and enhances measurement capabilities by providing greater temporal resolution in models used to investigate significant wave interactions (Hofland et al., 2014). Additionally, due to the compactness of focused wave groups, wave absorption becomes unnecessary. The research identifies two distinct case studies with varying wave forcing, tidal regimes and coastal layouts. This work presents a case study of a typical Mediterranean Sea configuration, which is a micro-tidal environment with steep and relatively short foreshores and pocket beaches. The study aims to characterize the overtopping flow velocity on the selected structure, and the feasibility of non-intrusive measurements such as a BIV technique has been investigated. The work includes preliminary results.

Wolf Rock Lighthouse is a Victorian era masonry structure located in an extreme environment facing the fiercest Atlantic storms off the southwest coast of England whose dynamic behaviour has been studied since 2016. Initially, a modal test was used to determine modal parameters; then, in 2017, a monitoring system was installed that has operated intermittently providing response data for a number of characteristic loading events. These events have included wave loads due to storms, a small UK earthquake, helicopters landing on the helideck, and the grounding of a ship on the reef. This is believed to be the most extensive experimental campaign on any structure of this type. This paper briefly describes a unique project involving the characterisation and measurement of dynamic behaviour due to different forms of dynamic loading.

Tsunami events are traditionally represented in the geological record by a sequence of fine-grained sediments, but increasingly coastal boulder deposits are being used as indicators of past tsunami events. The emplacement mechanism of many boulder deposits, however, is heavily debated and determining whether the inundation event was a tsunami or storm remains an unresolved challenge (Cox et al., 2020). Using physical experiments, we aim to achieve a better understanding of how tsunamis move coastal boulders. This knowledge will aid field geomorphologists in the identification of the emplacement mechanism for coastal boulder deposits and allow for the determination of wave parameters. In January 2023, physical experiments using the HR Wallingford Tsunami Simulator were completed as part of the MAKEWAVES collaboration. These experiments investigated the movement of a cuboid and irregular shaped boulder model when impacted by different tsunami waveforms on a plane beach. We propose new empirical formulae to describe relationships between transport distance and different tsunami waves.

Experiments are contaminated by second-order error waves at sub- and super-harmonic frequencies when first-order wave generation is used. Herein, we investigate by experiment the implications of second-order wave generation theory for dynamic wave force and run-up on a vertical wall in shallow to intermediate water depth (k₀d=0.5−1.1). Results of short-duration experiments using focused wave groups generated according to first- and second-order theory are compared. We isolate linear, sub-, and super-harmonic contributions using combinations of inverted wave group time series and filtering. We derive theoretical predictions for narrow-banded second-order wave groups interacting with a vertical wall and use this to calculate depth-integrated force and run-up on the wall, which show close agreement with measured data. Comparisons reveal that sub-harmonic error waves are increasingly important in shallow depth, increasing wave run-up by up to 67% and dynamic force by up to 75% at k₀d=0.6 when compared to the case of correct (second-order) generation in a relatively short flume.

Using linear (first-order) wave generation theory in laboratory experiments, leads to significant contamination of the wave field by free non-linear (second-order) error waves, increasingly so at shallower depths. Second-order wave generation theory has previously been established, and so has correct generation of the bound set-down, made up from second-order bound waves in the sub-harmonic part of the spectrum, for bichromatic and irregular wave fields in shallow to intermediate depth. In the present work, different from previous studies, we validate second-order wave theory explicitly for isolated wave groups, which provide a demanding test on the correct generation of sub-harmonic bound waves and the stroke length of the wavemaker. We do so for shallow to intermediate water depth, where some previous attempts at full elimination of sub-harmonic error waves have been hampered by limited paddle stroke. We overcome these limitations by applying second-order wavemaker theory to a piston-type paddle with an extended paddle stroke that can thence generate the bound set-down correctly. We show that sub-harmonic error waves are eliminated by considering wave groups in relative depths k₀d = 0.6–1.1, with important applications in coastal engineering experiments, such as run-up and overtopping.

The measurement of wave forces acting on marine structures is a complicated task, both during physical experiments and, even more so, in the field. Force transducers adopted in laboratory experiments require a minimum level of structural movement, thus violating the main assumption of fully rigid structure and introducing a dynamic response of the system. Sometimes the induced vibrations are so intense that they completely nullify the reliability of the experiments. On-site, it is even more complex, since there are no force transducers of the size and capacity able to measure such massive force intensity acting over the very large domain of a marine structure. To this end, this investigation proposes a Bayesian methodology aimed to remove the undesired effects from the directly (laboratory applications) or indirectly (field applications) measured wave forces. The paper presents three applications of the method: i) a theoretical application on a synthetic signal for which MATLAB® procedures are provided, ii) an experimental application on laboratory data collected during experiments aimed to model broken wave loading on a cylinder upon a shoal and iii) a field application designed to reconstruct the wave force that generated recorded vibrations on the Wolf Rock lighthouse during Hurricane Ophelia. The proposed methodology allows the inclusion of existing information on breaking and broken wave forces through the process-based informative prior distributions, while it also provides the formal framework for uncertainty quantification of the results through the posterior distribution. Notable findings are that the broken wave loading shows similar features for both laboratory and field data. The load time series is characterised by an initial impulsive component constituted by two peaks and followed by a delayed smoother one. The first two peaks are due to the initial impact of the aerated front and to the sudden deceleration of the falling water mass previously upward accelerated by the initial impact. The third, less intense peak, is due to the interaction between the cylinder and remaining water mass carried by the individual wave. Finally, the method allows to properly identify the length of the impulsive loading component. The implications of this length on the use of the impulse theory for the assessment or design of marine structures are discussed.

Periodic water waves generate Stokes drift as manifest from the orbits of Lagrangian particles not fully closing. Stokes drift can contribute to the transport of floating marine litter, including plastic. Previously, marine litter objects have been considered to be perfect Lagrangian tracers, travelling with the Stokes drift of the waves. However, floating marine litter objects have large ranges of sizes and densities, which potentially result in different rates of transport by waves due to the non-Lagrangian behaviour of the objects. Through a combination of theory and experiments for idealised spherical objects in deep-water waves, we show that different objects are transported at different rates depending on their size and density, and that larger buoyant objects can have increased drift compared with Lagrangian tracers. We show that the mechanism for the increased drift observed in our experiments comprises the variable submergence and the corresponding dynamic buoyancy force components in a direction perpendicular to the local water surface. This leads to an amplification of the drift of these objects compared to the Stokes drift when averaged over the wave cycle. Using an expansion in wave steepness, we derive a closed-form approximation for this increased drift, which can be included in ocean-scale models of marine litter transport.

The survivability analysis of offshore rock lighthouses requires several assumptions of the pressure distribution due to the breaking wave loading (Raby et al. (2019), Antonini et al. (2019). Due to the peculiar bathymetries and topographies of rock pinnacles, there is no dedicated formula to properly quantify the loads induced by the breaking waves on offshore rock lighthouses. Wienke’s formula (Wienke and Oumeraci (2005) was used in this study to estimate the loads, even though it was not derived for breaking waves on offshore rock lighthouses, but rather for the breaking wave loading on offshore monopiles. However, a thorough sensitivity analysis of the effects of the assumed pressure distribution has never been performed. In this paper, by means of the Wolf Rock lighthouse distinct element model, we quantified the influence of the pressure distributions on the dynamic response of the lighthouse structure. Different pressure distributions were tested, while keeping the initial wave impact area and pressure integrated force unchanged, in order to quantify the effect of different pressure distribution patterns. The pressure distributions considered in this paper showed subtle differences in the overall dynamic structure responses; however, pressure distribution #3, based on published experimental data such as Tanimoto et al. (1986) and Zhou et al. (1991) gave the largest displacements. This scenario has a triangular pressure distribution with a peak at the centroid of the impact area, which then linearly decreases to zero at the top and bottom boundaries of the impact area. The azimuthal horizontal distribution was adopted from Wienke and Oumeraci’s work (2005). The main findings of this study will be of interest not only for the assessment of rock lighthouses but also for all the cylindrical structures built on rock pinnacles or rocky coastlines (with steep foreshore slopes) and exposed to harsh breaking wave loading.

This study describes the structural response of historic lighthouses to extreme wave impacts. Located offshore on exposed rocks, 19th Century lighthouses were built with large interlocked granite blocks and have survived weathering for nearly two centuries. Under extreme wave impacts, lighthouses of this structural typology may uplift and rock, whereas sliding is prevented by the vertical interlocking. The uplift and sliding thresholds calculated with the limit analysis method reveal why this structural system is capable of bearing extreme wave impacts without failure. The ingenious vertical keying is proven to be a major characteristic that contributes to the resilience of these lighthouses. The structural response is explained with the use of analytic formulations of the rocking motion. Detailed analysis of the response to wave impact is conducted with reference to Wolf Rock lighthouse. The impact wave corresponding to a 250-year effective return period is identified using non-stationary Bayesian extreme analysis. Moreover, wave flume tests on a scaled cylindrical structure were performed to identify the wave impact force time-history shapes. Based on two waves: a theoretical time-history based on existing models in the literature and the measured time-histories from small-scale experiments, a series of synthetic force time-history sequences are generated for the purposes of a parametric analysis. This parametric analysis, with the Distinct Element Method, using the commercial software 3DEC, reveals the influence of the duration and shape of the force time-history function. For impacts with the same impulse values, shorter time impacts produce the most intense opening of joints, despite causing smaller horizontal displacements. Furthermore, variability in the structural response is revealed even for impacts of the same impulse, duration and maximum force but different shape of the force time-history.

Owing to the interplay between the forward Stokes drift and the backward wave-induced Eulerian return flow, Lagrangian particles underneath surface gravity wave groups can follow different trajectories depending on their initial depth below the surface. The motion of particles near the free surface is dominated by the waves and their Stokes drift, whereas particles at large depths follow horseshoe-shaped trajectories dominated by the Eulerian return flow. For unidirectional wave groups, a small net displacement in the direction of travel of the group results near the surface, and is accompanied by a net particle displacement in the opposite direction at depth. For deep-water waves, we study these trajectories experimentally by means of particle tracking velocimetry in a two-dimensional flume. In doing so, we provide visual illustration of Lagrangian trajectories under groups, including the contributions of both the Stokes drift and the Eulerian return flow to both the horizontal and the vertical Lagrangian displacements. We compare our experimental results to leading-order solutions of the irrotational water wave equations, finding good agreement.

The net movement of Lagrangian particles under water waves comprises a Stokes drift in the direction of wave propagation and an Eulerian return flow in the opposing direction. Accurate prediction of the Eulerian return flow in the ocean is of importance in modeling the transport of plastic pollution, oil, wreckage, and sediment. Herein, we derive a multiple-scales solution for the Eulerian mean flow under wave packets that is valid for all water depths, relative to both the length of the wave and the length of the wave packet. To validate this solution, we carry out particle tracking velocimetry experiments in a long flume to extract the mean motion from Lagrangian seeding particles under wave packets, finding good agreement. The extraction technique is able to deal with small background motion and subharmonic error waves associated with wave generation by the paddle, the latter being relatively large in finite-depth flume experiments. In finite depth, the return flow is forced by both the divergence of the Stokes transport on the wave-packet scale and the formation of a non-negligible mean set-down underneath the packet, which acts like a bounding streamtube in the form of a convergent-divergent duct. The magnitude of the horizontal return flow is thus enhanced, with particular relevance to transport in the finite-depth coastal environment.

Lighthouses situated on exposed rocky outcrops warn mariners of the dangers that lurk beneath the waves. They were first constructed when approaches to wave loading and structural response were relatively unsophisticated, essentially learning from previous failures. Here, we chart the evolution of lighthouses on the Wolf Rock, situated between Land's End and the Isles of Scilly in the UK. The first empirical approaches are described, followed by design aspects of the present tower, informed by innovations developed on other rocky outcrops. We focus on a particular development associated with the automation of lighthouses: the helideck platform. The design concept is described and the structure then scrutinized for future survivability, using the latest structural modelling techniques of the entire lighthouse and helideck. Model validation data were obtained through a complex logistical field operation and experimental modal analysis. Extreme wave loading for the model required the identification of the 250-year return period wave using a Bayesian method with informative prior distributions, for two different scenarios (2017 and 2067). The structural models predict responses of the helideck to wave loading which is characterized by differential displacements of 0.093m (2017) and 0.115m (2067) with associated high tension forces and plastic strain.

Despite use of GPS, lighthouses remain critical infrastructure for preserving safety of mariners and maritime trade, and the most dramatic examples are probably the Victorian era masonry towers located on remote offshore reefs around the British Isles and exposed to extreme weather conditions. Due to their age and likely increasing future loading, dynamic field investigations were undertaken for condition assessment. The field investigations of a sample of seven lighthouses had focused on experimental modal analysis (EMA) of shaker force and acceleration response data in order to identify sets of modal parameters (MPs) specifically including modal mass, which is useful for linking loading and response. However, the EMA missed significant useful information, which could be recovered from operational modal analysis (OMA) of additional ambient vibration data recorded during the field measurements, as well as from subsequent long-term monitoring of Wolf Rock lighthouse. Horizontal vibration modes of the towers appear as pairs of modes of similar shape and with close natural frequency due to the quasi-axisymmetric structural form(s), and the lowest frequency pairs are most important to identify since they contribute most to response to breaking wave impact loads. Reliably identifying both the close natural frequencies and the corresponding mode shape orientations was impossible with EMA. Bayesian OMA (BAYOMA) provided the most insight into the modal behaviour, while at the same time providing insight into the fundamental limitations for identifying close modes. Specific conclusions from the OMA described in this paper are: • Due to varying degree of asymmetry in the ‘concave elliptic frustum’ lighthouse shapes, mode frequencies in a pair were found to differ by between 0.75% and 3.8%. • Unlike EMA, OMA was able to identify (or estimate) the horizontal directions of the mode pairs corresponding to the very close natural frequencies. • Visually apparent structural symmetry may not be strongly linked to mode shape orientations. • Mode frequency variation over time may exceed -but is not accounted for in- the calculated identification uncertainty of MPs. • There is a trade-off between mode shape orientation uncertainty and closeness of frequencies in a close-mode pair.

Historic rock lighthouses are unusual structures that are situated in hostile marine environments to provide warning to mariners. Even in an era of satellite navigation their role continues to be an important one, but their survivability into the future is not assured. Out of concern for their ongoing service, the multidisciplinary STORMLAMP project is assessing their survivability under wave loading. This paper presents the various stages of investigations into the structural integrity and stability assessment of the Fastnet lighthouse, situated just off the coast of Ireland. The paper describes: Extreme Bayesian analysis to quantify waves of particular return periods resulting in a 1 in 250 year return period wave with H _0.1% of 17.6 m and an associated maximum force of 20,765 kN; logistically challenging field modal tests revealing the key modal parameters, like the modal masses of 1822 t and 1 675 t for 4.8 Hz and 5.0 Hz modes respectively, the cantilevered nature of the overall lighthouse and the directional effects due to the asymmetric contact with the granite rock; and details of a discontinuous finite element model that is used to determine the stability of the tower under the 1 in 250 year return period breaking wave condition, which is well within stability and material strength limits, causing maximum horizontal displacements in the order of 1 mm at the top of the tower. The overall assessment is that the sheer mass of the lighthouse and its interconnected joints are able to withstand the worst of the Atlantic storms.

Estimation of impulsive wave loading on a cylinder upon a shoal, such as an offshore rock lighthouse constructed on a partially emerged offshore rock with a steep foreshore, poses a unique challenge to marine structural engineers. Large and small scale experimental investigations are the most feasible methods to study this phenomena. However, any experimental investigation with impulsive loading faces challenges in the data analysis, when it is necessary to separate the total impact forces from the force response time series, and to separate the impulsive and quasi-static force components of the total force measurements. This paper is an attempt to re-visit several data analysis techniques with a unique experimental data set to study the advantages and limitations of those techniques, and also to learn how different techniques can be combined into a data analysis methodology to harness maximum information.

This theme issue, featuring Environmental loading of heritage structures, provides a snapshot of current civil engineering approaches to assessing ageing structures under a variety of loads. The publication arose from a serendipitous sequence of interactions. Academics at the University of Plymouth were contacted by Trinity House in 2010 to investigate reported vibrations in their rock lighthouses when impacted by storm waves. A pilot study on the nearby Eddystone lighthouse captured structural response data from the catastrophic storms of 2013/2014 and paved the way for a more comprehensive project. The STORMLAMP project brought together expertise across various civil engineering disciplines, hydrodynamics, field-based structural monitoring and structural modelling, at the University of Plymouth, University of Exeter and UCL, respectively. It has investigated rock lighthouses across all three of the General Lighthouse Authorities of UK and Ireland (Trinity House, Irish Lights and the Northern Lighthouse Board). Field modal testing was undertaken at seven rock lighthouses right across this region to support the characterization of extreme impulsive breaking wave loads, and the identified modal properties have subsequently been used to validate structural models. These models have also required the best estimates of likely wave loads in order to predict maximum structural responses, provided by researchers in the team.

A set of seven rock lighthouses around the British Isles was studied by a combination of forced and ambient vibration tests executed with some extreme logistical constraints. Forced vibration testing of the circular section masonry towers combined with experimental modal analysis identified modes with alignment assumed the same as the shaker as well as some interesting effects of helideck retrofit, whereas operational modal analysis revealed the considerable degree of uncertainty in mode shape alignment. Hence Bayesian operational modal analysis was used to characterise the uncertainty and find the best representation of mode shape direction. While perfectly axisymmetric towers would show a single frequency omnidirectional mode, OMA reveals the split modes and allows un unbiased view of directionality. The variability and uncertainty of these mode shape directions are further revealed using Bayesian OMA.

A simple geometry that exhibits near motion trapping is tested experimentally, along with perturbed versions of the structure. The motion of the freely floating structure and the surrounding wave field is tracked and the near-motion-trapped mode is found, characterised by a slowly decaying heave motion with very small linear radiation of energy. It is found that the latter property is a better discriminator of the perturbed geometries as viscous damping masks fine differences in radiation damping as far as the motion of the structure is concerned. The magnitude of this viscous damping is reasonably well predicted by a simple Stokes oscillatory boundary layer analysis.