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M.L. McAllister
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1
Surface gravity waves induce a drift on objects floating on the water's surface. This study presents laboratory experiments investigating the drift of large two-dimensional floating objects on deep-water, unidirectional, regular waves, with wave steepness ranging from 0.04 to 0.31 (0.04 0.31, where is the wavenumber and the wave amplitude). The objects were carefully designed to have a rectangular cross-section with a constant aspect ratio; their size varied from 2.6 to 27 of the incident wavelength. We observed Lagrangian behaviour for small objects. Small and large objects exhibited fundamentally different drift behaviour at high compared with low wave steepness, with a regime shift observed at a certain size and wave steepness. The scaling of object drift with steepness depends on the relative size of the object. For small objects, drift scales with steepness squared, whereas drift becomes a linear function of steepness as the object size increases. For objects that are relatively large but smaller than 13-16% of a wavelength (low to high steepness), we provide experimental evidence supporting the mechanisms of drift enhancement recently identified by Xiao et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 980, 2024, p. A27) and termed the 'diffraction-modified Stokes drift'. This enhanced drift behaviour, compared with the theoretical Stokes drift for infinitely small fluid parcels, is attributed to changes in the objects' oscillatory motion and local wave amplitude distribution (standing wave pattern) due to the presence of the object. In the case of larger objects, similar to Harms (J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng., vol. 113(6), 1987, pp. 606-622), we relate the critical size at which drift is maximised to their vertical bobbing motion. We determine the domain of validity for both Stokes drift and the diffraction-modified Stokes drift model of Xiao et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 980, 2024, A27) in terms of relative size and wave steepness and propose an empirical parametrisation based on our experimental data.
...
Surface gravity waves induce a drift on objects floating on the water's surface. This study presents laboratory experiments investigating the drift of large two-dimensional floating objects on deep-water, unidirectional, regular waves, with wave steepness ranging from 0.04 to 0.31 (0.04 0.31, where is the wavenumber and the wave amplitude). The objects were carefully designed to have a rectangular cross-section with a constant aspect ratio; their size varied from 2.6 to 27 of the incident wavelength. We observed Lagrangian behaviour for small objects. Small and large objects exhibited fundamentally different drift behaviour at high compared with low wave steepness, with a regime shift observed at a certain size and wave steepness. The scaling of object drift with steepness depends on the relative size of the object. For small objects, drift scales with steepness squared, whereas drift becomes a linear function of steepness as the object size increases. For objects that are relatively large but smaller than 13-16% of a wavelength (low to high steepness), we provide experimental evidence supporting the mechanisms of drift enhancement recently identified by Xiao et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 980, 2024, p. A27) and termed the 'diffraction-modified Stokes drift'. This enhanced drift behaviour, compared with the theoretical Stokes drift for infinitely small fluid parcels, is attributed to changes in the objects' oscillatory motion and local wave amplitude distribution (standing wave pattern) due to the presence of the object. In the case of larger objects, similar to Harms (J. Waterw. Port Coast. Ocean Eng., vol. 113(6), 1987, pp. 606-622), we relate the critical size at which drift is maximised to their vertical bobbing motion. We determine the domain of validity for both Stokes drift and the diffraction-modified Stokes drift model of Xiao et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 980, 2024, A27) in terms of relative size and wave steepness and propose an empirical parametrisation based on our experimental data.
Journal article
(2024)
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M.L. McAllister, S. Draycott, R. Calvert, T. Davey, F. Dias, T.S. van den Bremer
Although a ubiquitous natural phenomenon, the onset and subsequent process of surface wave breaking are not fully understood. Breaking affects how steep waves become and drives air–sea exchanges1. Most seminal and state-of-the-art research on breaking is underpinned by the assumption of two-dimensionality, although ocean waves are three dimensional. We present experimental results that assess how three-dimensionality affects breaking, without putting limits on the direction of travel of the waves. We show that the breaking-onset steepness of the most directionally spread case is double that of its unidirectional counterpart. We identify three breaking regimes. As directional spreading increases, horizontally overturning ‘travelling-wave breaking’ (I), which forms the basis of two-dimensional breaking, is replaced by vertically jetting ‘standing-wave breaking’ (II). In between, ‘travelling-standing-wave breaking’ (III) is characterized by the formation of vertical jets along a fast-moving crest. The mechanisms in each regime determine how breaking limits steepness and affects subsequent air–sea exchanges. Unlike in two dimensions, three-dimensional wave-breaking onset does not limit how steep waves may become, and we produce directionally spread waves 80% steeper than at breaking onset and four times steeper than equivalent two-dimensional waves at their breaking onset. Our observations challenge the validity of state-of-the-art methods used to calculate energy dissipation and to design offshore structures in highly directionally spread seas.
...
Although a ubiquitous natural phenomenon, the onset and subsequent process of surface wave breaking are not fully understood. Breaking affects how steep waves become and drives air–sea exchanges1. Most seminal and state-of-the-art research on breaking is underpinned by the assumption of two-dimensionality, although ocean waves are three dimensional. We present experimental results that assess how three-dimensionality affects breaking, without putting limits on the direction of travel of the waves. We show that the breaking-onset steepness of the most directionally spread case is double that of its unidirectional counterpart. We identify three breaking regimes. As directional spreading increases, horizontally overturning ‘travelling-wave breaking’ (I), which forms the basis of two-dimensional breaking, is replaced by vertically jetting ‘standing-wave breaking’ (II). In between, ‘travelling-standing-wave breaking’ (III) is characterized by the formation of vertical jets along a fast-moving crest. The mechanisms in each regime determine how breaking limits steepness and affects subsequent air–sea exchanges. Unlike in two dimensions, three-dimensional wave-breaking onset does not limit how steep waves may become, and we produce directionally spread waves 80% steeper than at breaking onset and four times steeper than equivalent two-dimensional waves at their breaking onset. Our observations challenge the validity of state-of-the-art methods used to calculate energy dissipation and to design offshore structures in highly directionally spread seas.
Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form unforced steep waves, i.e. nonlinearity or dispersion, are thought to have a strong influence on the onset of wave breaking. In two dimensions and in deep water, spectral bandwidth is the main factor that affects the roles these mechanism play. Existing studies, in which the relationship between spectral bandwidth and wave breaking onset is investigated, present varied and sometimes conflicting results. We perform potential-flow simulations of two-dimensional focused wave groups on deep water to better understand this relationship, with the aim of reconciling existing studies. We show that the way in which steepness is defined may be the main source of confusion in the literature. Locally defined steepness at breaking onset reduces as a function of bandwidth, and globally defined (spectral) steepness increases. The relationship between global breaking onset steepness and spectral shape (using the parameters bandwidth and spectral skewness) is too complex to parameterise in a general way. However, we find that the local surface slope of maximally steep non-breaking waves, of all spectral bandwidths and shapes that we simulate, approaches a limit of 1/tan(π/3)≈0.5774. This slope-based threshold is simple to measure and may be used as an alternative to existing kinematic breaking onset thresholds. There is a potential link between slope-based and kinematic breaking onset thresholds, which future work should seek to better understand.
...
Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form unforced steep waves, i.e. nonlinearity or dispersion, are thought to have a strong influence on the onset of wave breaking. In two dimensions and in deep water, spectral bandwidth is the main factor that affects the roles these mechanism play. Existing studies, in which the relationship between spectral bandwidth and wave breaking onset is investigated, present varied and sometimes conflicting results. We perform potential-flow simulations of two-dimensional focused wave groups on deep water to better understand this relationship, with the aim of reconciling existing studies. We show that the way in which steepness is defined may be the main source of confusion in the literature. Locally defined steepness at breaking onset reduces as a function of bandwidth, and globally defined (spectral) steepness increases. The relationship between global breaking onset steepness and spectral shape (using the parameters bandwidth and spectral skewness) is too complex to parameterise in a general way. However, we find that the local surface slope of maximally steep non-breaking waves, of all spectral bandwidths and shapes that we simulate, approaches a limit of 1/tan(π/3)≈0.5774. This slope-based threshold is simple to measure and may be used as an alternative to existing kinematic breaking onset thresholds. There is a potential link between slope-based and kinematic breaking onset thresholds, which future work should seek to better understand.