FD

F. Dias

info

Please Note

2 records found

Journal article (2024) - M.L. McAllister, S. Draycott, R. Calvert, T. Davey, F. Dias, T.S. van den Bremer
Although a ubiquitous natural phenomenon, the onset and subsequent process of surface wave breaking are not fully understood. Breaking affects how steep waves become and drives air–sea exchanges1. Most seminal and state-of-the-art research on breaking is underpinned by the assumption of two-dimensionality, although ocean waves are three dimensional. We present experimental results that assess how three-dimensionality affects breaking, without putting limits on the direction of travel of the waves. We show that the breaking-onset steepness of the most directionally spread case is double that of its unidirectional counterpart. We identify three breaking regimes. As directional spreading increases, horizontally overturning ‘travelling-wave breaking’ (I), which forms the basis of two-dimensional breaking, is replaced by vertically jetting ‘standing-wave breaking’ (II). In between, ‘travelling-standing-wave breaking’ (III) is characterized by the formation of vertical jets along a fast-moving crest. The mechanisms in each regime determine how breaking limits steepness and affects subsequent air–sea exchanges. Unlike in two dimensions, three-dimensional wave-breaking onset does not limit how steep waves may become, and we produce directionally spread waves 80% steeper than at breaking onset and four times steeper than equivalent two-dimensional waves at their breaking onset. Our observations challenge the validity of state-of-the-art methods used to calculate energy dissipation and to design offshore structures in highly directionally spread seas. ...

Three-dimensional wave breaking (Nature, (2024), 633, 8030, (601-607), 10.1038/s41586-024-07886-z)

Journal article (2024) - M. L. McAllister, S. Draycott, R. Calvert, T. Davey, F. Dias, T. S. van den Bremer
Correction to: Naturehttps://doi.org/10.1038/s41586-024-07886-z Published online 14 September 2024 In the version of the article initially published, there was a typographical error where in the Fig. 5 title, now reading “For 3D waves, breaking onset does not limit crest height,” the word “not” was missing. The error has been corrected in the HTML and PDF versions of the article. ...