Near-shore wave simulations with a boussinesq-type model including breaking

Abstract

The Boussinesq-type modeling concept provides an adequate and efficient means to describe wave dynamics in coastal regions. They are an extension of the depth-averaged shallow-water model and include the propagation of short waves as well as nonlinear effects. The Boussinesq-type model applied in this paper has been developed to obtain an accuracy sufficient for practical purposes within limited computing times. We present the extension of this model with a 2-D wave breaking model based on a combination of the eddy viscosity concept and the surface roller concept. The combination has a number of features that makes it suitable for nearshore applications. Mass and momentum are strictly conserved while the wave breaking model only dissipates energy, which is in agreement with physical laws. The results and the comparison with experiments under very different wave conditions demonstrate the good performance of the model.