Wave Propagation in Shallow Water

Report (1992)

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Copyright: © 1992 Robert A. Dalrymple
Waves Shallow water Wave propagation Shoaling Wave transformation ICCE 1992
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Published Date

01-10-1992

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Design and Reliability of Coastal Structures, short course during the 23rd ICCE in Venice

Abstract

The propagation of waves from offshore to onshore is a difficult problem due to the mathematical complexities of the governing equations and the degree of uncertainty of the bathymetry over which the waves must travel. In this lecture, the various methods of transforming offshore wave trains to shallow water are discussed. First, single wave trains will be covered and then the shoaling of spectra will be introduced. Various wave transformation methods, such as ray tracing and parabollic modelling, are covered.