Coastal Dynamics

This textbook on Coastal Dynamics focuses on the interrelation between physical wave, flow and sediment transport phenomena and the resulting morphodynamics of a wide variety of coastal systems. The textbook is unique in that it explicitly connects the dynamics of open coasts and tidal basins; not only is the interaction between open coasts and...

Boussinesq modelling of wave-induced particle velocities

In this thesis, the modelling of the horizontal velocity field under waves using Boussinesqtype models is studied. Special attention is paid to the prediction of bottom velocities in view of sediment-transport formulations. Boussinesq-type models describe the propagation of weakly non-linear shallow-water waves. The depth-dependence of the...