Generation of low-frequency waves due to obliquely incident grouped short waves

Looking at a surfzone, one immediately notices the short breaking waves. Looking more carefully, will show in most cases that the wave height of the breaking waves is not constant, but varies in time. Often one may observe that groups of relatively high waves are followed by groups of lower waves. This short wave groupiness may cause low...

Large-scale flume tests in the Grosse Wellenkanal: Analysis of wave parameters and cross-shore transport and comparison with UNIBEST-TC

In this abstract we discuss the analysis of wave and profile measurements in the Grosse Wellenkanal, reported in Dette & Uliczka (Coastal Sediments, 1988) of which the raw data were made available by J. Oelerich in January 1992. This analysis provides us with accurate data not only on the profile development, but also on the variation in time...

3D structure of mean flows comparison with measurements

This progress report refers to part the work done within the framework of the Dutch Center for Coastal Research (NCK). The primary objective of our research is to develop knowledge and methods for the prediction of the hydrodynamic conditions for the Dutch coast taking into account the morphodynamic behaviour in the nearshore zone. In general...

Directional spreading in surfbeat: A first assessment

In the following we consider the forcing of long waves by normally or obliquely incident grouped short waves, also known as surf beat. Two mechanisms responsible for the generation of long waves are considered: the release of the bound long waves associated with changes in the spatial variation of the incident short wave energy [Longuet-Higgins...