Infragravity wave resonance over coral reef lined coasts

Coral reefs are vital to the prosperity of the world and the local communities by providing food and coastal protection. Coral reefs are home to 25% of marine life and have therefore gained the nickname ’rainforest of the sea’. However, the reefs are being damaged by climate change and human intervention, resulting in an alarming rate of...

Modelling Vertical Variation of Turbulent Flow Across a Surf Zone Using SWASH

This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to propagation of irregular waves in a barred surf zone, and the model results are discussed by comparing against an extensive laboratory data set. This study focus not only on wave transformation in the surf zone, but also on the numerical prediction of...