On Consistent Parameterizations for Both Dominant Wind-Waves and Spectral Tail Directionality

Numerical wave models have been developed to reproduce the evolution of waves generated in all directions and over a wide range of wavelengths. The amount of wave energy in the different directions and wavelength is the result of a number of physical processes that are not well understood and that may not be represented in parameterizations....

Water Level Modulation of Wave Transformation, Setup and Runup Over La Saline Fringing Reef

Coral reefs represent an efficient natural mechanical coastal defense against ocean waves. The focus of this study is La Saline fringing coral reef, located in the microtidal West of La Réunion Island in the Indian Ocean, frequently exposed to Southern Ocean swell and cyclonic events. The aim is to provide a better understanding of the reef's...

Wave Breaking Induced by Opposing Currents in Submerged Vegetation Canopies

Wave height attenuation in vegetation canopies is often all attributed to the drag force exerted by vegetation, whereas other potential dissipation process is often neglected. Previous studies without vegetation have found that opposing currents can induce wave breaking and greatly increase dissipation. It is not clear if similar process may...

The dynamics of infragravity wave transformation over a fringing reef

A 3 week field study was conducted to investigate the dynamics of low-frequency (infragravity) wave motions over a fringing reef at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. Short-period wave motions (0.04–0.2 Hz) were observed to dissipate on the reef crest beyond which infragravity wave motions (0.004–0.04 Hz) gradually dominated toward the lagoon....

Wave dissipation by vegetation

Flooding resulting from hurricanes and other extreme storm events is a prominent risk along the coasts. These coastal areas are typically of low elevation and relief,making land and infrastructure highly susceptible to inundation by storm surge and waves. These verity of this threat is exacerbated by sea level rise and a possible increase in...

Wave dissipation over vegetation fields

It has been widely recognized that ongoing climate change, most likely due to human interference with nature, may accelerate sea level rise and increase storm intensity. It is therefore urgent to design countermeasures to alleviate the impact of climate change on coastal regions. Apart from the view point of coastal protection, it is also very...

Effects on wave break, sea dike protection of the tree planting formula in the coastal salinity inundated areas

Field investigation by Vuong Van Quynh on the dissipation of wave energy in a mangrove field off the coast of southern Vietnam. Based on regression analysis a formula has been developed to determine the wave height decrease as function of the tree density and the tree sizes.

Golfbrekerontwerp voor rustig golfklimaat ten behoeve van de havenuitbreiding van St. Eustatius, Nederlandse Antillen

Nadat een orkaanwaarschuwing voor het Caribisch gebied, waarin gelegen het eiland St. Eustatius, is afgegeven, vertrekken plezierjachten, cruise-schepen en vissersbootjes naar veilige gebieden, waardoor de haven van St. Eustatius geen functie heeft tijdens het passeren van een orkaan. In deze haalbaarheidsstudie is onderzocht of het mogelijk is...

Dissipation in random wave groups incident on a beach

The transformation of certain parameters of an incident random wave train across the surf zone has been the subject of much study and modelling effort. In recent literature, two classes of models have been developed, which are both based on the wave energy balance or the wave action equation, but use markedly different approaches. The main goal...

Golfdempende constructies

Onderzoek naar een veelheid van golfdempende constructies, toe te passen in de nieuwe meren in Zeeland (Grevelingenmeer, Zoommeer, Veerse meer), zoals drijvende golfbrekers, paalrijen en pallisades, autobanden.