Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of low?frequency waves

The growth rate, shoreline reflection, and dissipation of low?frequency waves are investigated using data obtained from physical experiments in the Delft University of Technology research flume and by parameter variation using the numerical model Delft3D?SurfBeat. The growth rate of the shoaling incoming long wave varies with depth with an...

Energy transfer between short wave groups and bound long waves on a plane slope

The present report describes a laboratory study on energy transfer between short wave groups and bound long waves. From previous experiments (Battjes et al. (2003) the bound wave travelling shoreward is observed to grow faster than Green's Law, indicating that the bound wave gains energy from other spectral components. Under certain conditions,...