Wave Attenuation and Wave Set-Up on a Coastal Reef

This study deals with the breaking of waves on coastal reefs, with special emphasis on energy dissipation (wave height attenuation), wave spectrum modification and the characteristics of wave set-up. It has an engineering perspective; its main objective is to provide the practicing engineer with much needed information on the design conditions...

Spectral evolution in waves traveling over a shoal

Nonlinear aspects of breaking and non-breaking waves propagating over a submerged trapezoidal bar have been investigated by laboratory experiments, with special emphasis on the generation of high-frequency energy. Data collected from the measurements are used for computing spectral and bispectral estimates in order to assess the contribution of...