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Rutten, J. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Zhang, Xinyi (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), van Wiechen, P.P.J. (author), de Vries, S. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Mol, Jan Willem (author), Wilmink, Rinse (author)
Infragravity (IG) waves are key drivers for coastal erosion and thus need to be properly included in process-based modelling of coastal hazards. Uncertainties remain regarding the offshore boundary conditions for these long waves. Typically, only bound IG waves are included at the boundary, which means that the possible contribution of free IG...
conference paper 2023
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da Silva, Renan F. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Buckley, Mark L. (author)
Nearshore rocky reefs with scales of order 10–100 m are common along the world's coastline and often shape wave-driven hydrodynamics and shoreline morphology in their lee. The interaction of waves with these reefs generally results in either two or four-cell mean circulation systems (2CC and 4CC, respectively), with diverging flows behind the...
journal article 2023
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), van Rooijen, Arnold (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Wit, F.P. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)
Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not straightforward as it requires appropriate boundary conditions in combination with a large domain size and long...
journal article 2023
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, Pieter B. (author), Guza, R. T. (author)
A fully nonlinear non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves is derived based on the nonlinear shallow water equations to study the nearshore dynamics of infragravity (IG) waves. Based on simulations of waves on a relatively moderate and mild beach slope with a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model (SWASH), the new theory shows that spatial...
journal article 2022
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Buckley, Mark L. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Pomeroy, Andrew (author), Storlazzi, Curt D. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), da Silva, Renan F. (author), Contardo, Stephanie (author), Green, Rebecca H. (author)
Wave breaking on the steep fore-reef slopes of shallow fringing reefs can be effective at dissipating incident sea-swell waves prior to reaching reef shorelines. However, wave setup and free infragravity waves generated during the sea-swell breaking process are often the largest contributors to wave-driven water levels (wave runup) at the...
journal article 2022
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Matsuba, Yoshinao (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Shimozono, Takenori (author)
Understanding directional spectra of infragravity (IG) waves composed of free and bound components is required due to their impacts on various coastal processes (e.g., coastal inundation and morphological change). However, conventional reconstruction methods of directional spectra relying on linear wave theory are not applicable to IG waves...
journal article 2022
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Lowe, R. J. (author), Altomare, C. (author), Buckley, M. L. (author), da Silva, R. F. (author), Hansen, J. E. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Domínguez, J. M. (author), Crespo, A. J.C. (author)
As waves interact with the slopes of coral reefs and other steep bathymetry profiles, plunging breaking usually occurs where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is triggered. Resolving these surf zone processes pose significant challenges for conventional mesh-based hydrodynamic models, due to the rapidly-deforming nature of...
journal article 2022
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da Silva, Renan F. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Buckley, Mark L. (author)
Engineered and natural submerged coastal structures (e.g., submerged breakwaters and reefs) modify incident wave fields and thus can alter hydrodynamic processes adjacent to coastlines. Although submerged structures are generally assumed to promote beach protection by dissipating waves offshore and creating sheltered conditions in their lee,...
journal article 2022
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David, Daniel R. (author), Kurniawan, Adi (author), Wolgamot, Hugh (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Lowe, Ryan (author)
To be commercially viable, wave energy converters (WECs) will need to be deployed in arrays or “wave farms” to generate significant amounts of energy and to have the costs of these farms minimised. However, when designing a wave farm, there are a number of trade-offs to be made between competing objectives; for example, between the power...
journal article 2022
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Wolgamot, Hugh (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)
Predictions of the wave-induced response of floating structures that are moored in a harbour or coastal waters require an accurate description of the (nonlinear) evolution of waves over variable bottom topography, the interactions of the waves with the structure, and the dynamics of the mooring system. In this paper, we present a new advanced...
journal article 2022
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Naporowski, Remy (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Akrish, G. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author)
Coastal safety assessments with wave-resolving storm impact models require a proper offshore description for the incoming infragravity (IG) waves. This boundary condition is generally obtained by assuming a local equilibrium between the directionally-spread incident sea-swell wave forcing and the bound IG waves. The contribution of the free...
journal article 2021
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)
Infragravity waves are low-frequency surface waves that can impact a variety of nearshore and oceanic processes. Recent measurements in the North Sea showed that significant bursts of infragravity energy occurred during storm events. Using a spectral wave model, we show that a substantial part of this energy was radiated from distant...
journal article 2021
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Buckley, Mark L. (author), da Silva, Renan F. (author), Cuttler, Michael V.W. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Green, Rebecca H. (author), Storlazzi, Curt D. (author)
Two-dimensional mean wave-driven flow and setup dynamics were investigated at a reef-lagoon system at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia, using the numerical wave-flow model, SWASH. Phase-resolved numerical simulations of the wave and flow fields, validated with highly detailed field observations (including >10 sensors through the energetic...
journal article 2021
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Contardo, Stephanie (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Dufois, François (author), Symonds, Graham (author)
Long waves are generated and transform when short-wave groups propagate into shallow water, but the generation and transformation processes are not fully understood. In this study we develop an analytical solution to the linearized shallow-water equations at the wave-group scale, which decomposes the long waves into a forced solution (a bound...
journal article 2021
document
da Silva, Renan F. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Lowe, Ryan (author), Buckley, Mark (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)
Analysis of the mean (wave-averaged) momentum balance is a common approach used to explain the physical forcing driving wave set-up and mean currents in the nearshore zone. Traditionally this approach has been applied to phase-averaged models but has more recently been applied to phase-resolving models using post-processing, whereby model...
journal article 2021
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van der Reijden, Karin J. (author), Govers, Laura L. (author), Koop, L. (author), Damveld, Johan H. (author), Herman, Peter M.J. (author), Mestdagh, S.M.F. (author), Piet, Gerjan (author), Rijnsdorp, Adriaan D. (author), Dinesen, Grete E. (author), Snellen, M. (author), Olff, Han (author)
Conflicts of interests between economic and nature conservation stakeholders are increasingly common in coastal seas, inducing a growing need for evidence-based marine spatial planning. This requires accurate, high-resolution habitat maps showing the spatial distribution of benthic assemblages and enabling intersections of habitats and...
journal article 2021
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Lowe, R. J. (author), Buckley, M. L. (author), Altomare, C. (author), Rijnsdorp, D. P. (author), Yao, Y. (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author)
In this study we investigated the capabilities of the mesh-free, Lagrangian particle method (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics, SPH) to simulate the detailed hydrodynamic processes generated by both spilling and plunging breaking waves within the surf zone. The weakly-compressible SPH code DualSPHysics was applied to simulate wave breaking over...
journal article 2019
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Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Buckley, Mark L. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Rijnsdorp, Dirk P. (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author)
In this study we assess the capabilities of the mesh-free, Lagrangian particle method (Smooth Particle Hydrodynamics, SPH) method to simulate the detailed hydrodynamic processes generated by both spilling and plunging breaking waves within the surf zone, and present how the approach can be used to predict a broad spectrum of hydrodynamic...
conference paper 2019
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, Pieter B. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)
Wave-induced currents are an ubiquitous feature in coastal waters that can spread material over the surf zone and the inner shelf. These currents are typically under resolved in non-hydrostatic wave-flow models due to computational constraints. Specifically, the low vertical resolutions adequate to describe the wave dynamics – and required to...
journal article 2017
document
Rijnsdorp, J. (author)
Re-entry is a term that is applied when one would like to transport some (human) payload from an orbit around a certain body towards the surface of that body. With an entry velocity of multiple kilometers per second, having the vehicle carrying this payload not smashed into pieces at the end of flight is one of the key points of re-entry. Using...
master thesis 2017
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