High-Resolution Atmospheric Modelling and the Effects on the Prediction of Wave Characteristics

Since their development in the 1970s, mesoscale atmospheric models have been used for a variety of meteorological applications. Over the years, the models have evolved and nowadays, state-of-the-art atmospheric models are capable of operating on spatial resolutions in the order of kilometres. In the hydraulic engineering community, atmospheric...

Effect of uncertainty in wave growth calculation on overtopping over dikes: A case study

Example calculation of a dike height incorporating the uncertainty in the wave growth formula of Young and Verhagen.

The accuracy of the Young and Verhagen formula for waves in water of finite depth

Wind waves are capable of dealing damage to hydraulic structures. In the ultimate case, the loads never exceed the strength of the structure. Unfortunately it is often impossible (or uneconomical) to design a structure that will fit this requirement. That is why structures are designed with a certain allowable probability of failure, displayed...

On the added value of coupled wind-wave-current modelling

Tides, currents, wind, waves, and sea level (surge) influence each other in several ways. These interactions are often not accounted for. We here review some recent papers that report results from coupled modelling with the aim to get an impression of how large coupled effects might be, and in which regions and under which circumstances they...

Observed finite depth wave growth limit in the Wadden Sea

The spectral wind wave model SWAN (Booij et al. 1999) plays a key role in the estimation of the Hydraulic Boundary Conditions (HBC) for the primary sea defences of the Netherlands. Since some uncertainty remains with respect to the reliability of the wind wave model SWAN for application to the geographically complex area of the Wadden Sea, a...

Measured wind-wave climatology Lake IJssel (NL) + Errata

In the period 1997-2007, an extensive wind and wave measuring campaign has been carried out on Lake IJssel and Lake Sloten in The Netherlands. The aim of this campaign was to gather and analyse welldocumented wind and wave measurements of high quality, for a range of fetch, depth and (strong) wind conditions. The data should serve a number of...

Validity of wind assumptions for wave predictions in the case of lakes

It is important for dams and dikes planning to take the generation of waves within their reservoir into account. However, the theories used to determine the characteristics of those wind-generated waves often rely on conditions applicable in open sea. This paper will try to investigate their applicability to conditions present in reservoirs and...

The Response of Waves to Changes in Wind Speed

Detailed studies have been carried out for fetch and duration limited wave growth and fully developed sea state, but much less is known about changing wind conditions. The subject of this study is the response of waves to a change in wind speed. The main point of interest is the rate of response at the different frequencies. Two third generation...

Hindcast wave information for the US Atlantic Coast

This report provides revised wave information at 108 nearshore locations along the US Atlantic coastline and 3 stations along the north coast of Puerto Rico. It supersedes information provided in WIS Reports 2, 6, and 9. The information is derived from wind fields developed in a previous hindcast for the period 1956-1975 and the present version...

Implementation (II) of the numerical shallow water wave hindcast model HISWA

Development of a two-dimensional model to hindcast spectral wave parameters in an estuary with tidal flats on the basis of bottomtopography, current and wind data. Diffraction-like propagation has been implemented and tested. Tests indicate that this type of propagation cannot.be used for most applications. Wave growth and decay has been...

Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP)

"Wave spectra were measured along a profile extending 160 kilometers into the North Sea westward from Sylt for a period often weeks in 1968 and 1969. During the main experiment in July 1969, thirteen wave stations were in operation, of which six stations continued measurements into the first two weeks of August. A smaller pilot experiment was...

Wind effect on pre-existing waves

Wind action on pre-existing ,waves is examined experimentally in a wind-wave channel, in which the pre-existing waves are generated mechanically by a paddle at the windward end of the channel. Air is blown over these waves, in the direction of ,·rave travel, at velocities up to about 30 feet per second, with the formation of wind-generated waves...