Characteristics of flow in run-up of periodic waves

The run-up of waves is an important factor in the design of shore structures. It has been investigated in many studies, both theoretical and experimental. The experimental studies have mostly been confined to the maximum run-up (the greatest height above still water level, reached by the periodic waves on the slope). A simple and reliable...

Waves of long and short period

Research on waves, with focus on translation waves due to gate operations.