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Phan, M.H. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Ye, Qinghua (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)The coastal zone of Mekong delta is suffering under intense pressures from climate change as well as human intervention. Currently, the coastline evolution of Mekong delta is a complex combination of impacts due to (1) relative sea level rise i.e. the sum of eustatic sea level rise, natural and human induced subsidence (2) sediment transport...conference paper 2017
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de Wit, F.P. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Coastal systems are influenced by a combination of waves and tides. In certain cases, tide-induced alongshore currents can be of similar order or even larger than wave-induced currents. Until now, however, no detailed wave-resolving modelling studies included tidal currents. This paper presents a method to implement alongshore tidal currents by...conference paper 2017
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Lasserre, Camila Gaido (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author)Waves are important drivers for reef hydrodynamics, and therefore strongly contribute to flooding over reef-lined coasts. While high-frequency waves are largely dissipated when they propagate over the reef flat due to breaking and friction, low-frequency (LF) waves are generally able to reach the back-reef beach. There, they can reflect and form...conference paper 2020
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Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Dekkers, Jochem (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), van Dongeren, Ap (author)Several studies have reported the development of undular bores over fringing coral reefs (e.g, Gallagher, 1976; Nwogu and Demirbilek, 2010) but the importance of this phenomenon for reef hydrodynamics has never been studied. Yet, the transformation of a long wave (e.g., swell or infragravity wave) into an undular bore leads to significant...conference paper 2018
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Rutten, J. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Zhang, Xinyi (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), van Wiechen, P.P.J. (author), de Vries, S. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Mol, Jan Willem (author), Wilmink, Rinse (author)Infragravity (IG) waves are key drivers for coastal erosion and thus need to be properly included in process-based modelling of coastal hazards. Uncertainties remain regarding the offshore boundary conditions for these long waves. Typically, only bound IG waves are included at the boundary, which means that the possible contribution of free IG...conference paper 2023
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- Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author) doctoral thesis 1999
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MacMahan, J.H. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Thornton, E.B. (author)Observations of velocity fluctuations with periods between about 4 and 30 min, thus longer than infragravity waves and referred to as very low frequency (VLF) surf zone motions, are described and compared with numerical simulations. The VLF motions discussed here exclude instabilities (generated by the wave-driven alongshore current velocity...journal article 2010
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Ortiz-Suslow, D.G. (author), Haus, B.K. (author), Williams, N.J. (author), Laxague, N.J.M. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Graber, H.C. (author)Coastal waters are an aerodynamically unique environment that has been little explored from an air-sea interaction point of view. Consequently, most studies must assume that open ocean-derived parameterizations of the air-sea momentum flux are representative of the nearshore wind forcing. Observations made at the New River Inlet in North...journal article 2015
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Gallagher, E.L. (author), MacMahan, J.H. (author), Brown, J.A. (author), Van Rooijen, A.A. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), Van Prooijen, B.C. (author)Novel observations of surface grain-size distributions are used in combination with intra-wave modeling to examine the processes responsible for the sorting of sediment grains on a relatively steep beach (slope?=?1:7.5). The field observations of the mean grain size collected with a digital camera system at consecutive low and high tides for a 2...journal article 2013
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), MacMahan, J.H. (author), Thornton, E.B. (author), Stanton, T.P. (author), Henriquez, M. (author), Brown, J.W. (author), Brown, J.A. (author), Gallagher, E. (author)The retention of floating matter within the surf zone on a rip-channeled beach is examined with a combination of detailed field observations obtained during the Rip Current Experiment and a three-dimensional (3-D) wave and flow model. The acoustic Doppler current profiler–observed hourly vertical cross-shore velocity structure variability over a...journal article 2009
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Shanks, A.L. (author), MacMahan, J. (author), Morgan, S.G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Jarvis, M. (author), Brown, J. (author), Fujimura, A. (author), Griesemer, C. (author)Larvae of many intertidal species develop offshore and must cross the surf zone to complete their onshore migration to adult habitats. Depending on hydrodynamics, the surf zone may limit this migration, especially on reflective rocky shores. As a logistically tractable analog of a rocky shore environment, we carried out a comprehensive...journal article 2015
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Ruessink, B.G. (author), Kuriyama, Y. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Walstra, D.J.R. (author)We compare predictions of a coupled, wave-averaged, cross-shore waves-currents-bathymetric evolution model to observations of onshore and offshore nearshore sandbar migration. The observations span a 10- and 44-day period with onshore/offshore bar migration at Duck, North Carolina, and at Hasaki, Kashima Coast, Japan, respectively, a 3.5-month...journal article 2007
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), MacMahan, J.H. (author), Beron-Vera, F.J. (author), Olascoaga, M.J. (author)The trapping and ejection of surfzone floating material is examined by unveiling Lagrangian Coherent Structures (LCSs) hidden in the pulsating rip?current surface velocity field produced by a three?dimensional numerical model resolving wave?group induced Very Low Frequency motions (VLFs). LCSs explain the typically observed patchiness of flotsam...journal article 2010
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Brouwer, R.L. (author), De Schipper, M.A. (author), Rynne, P.F. (author), Graham, F.J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Macmahan, J.H. (author)This study investigates the potential of rotary wing unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) to monitor the surfzone. This paper shows that these UAVs are extremely flexible surveying platforms that can gather nearcontinuous moderate spatial resolution and high temporal resolution imagery from a fixed position high above a study site. The rotary wing...journal article 2015
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Bosboom, J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)The accuracy of morphological predictions is generally measured by an overall point-wise metric, such as the mean-squared difference between pairs of predicted and observed bed levels. Unfortunately, point-wise accuracy metrics tend to favour featureless predictions over predictions whose features are (slightly) misplaced. From the perspective...journal article 2014
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Brown, J. (author), MacMahan, J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Thornton, E. (author)Absolute and relative diffusivity are measured on a rip-channeled beach using 30 position-tracking drifters released in clusters (4–12 drifters) deployed on 7 days with different wave forcing and tidal elevations at Sand City, Monterey Bay, California. Diffusivity and dispersion were found to be larger on days with rip current flow patterns and...journal article 2009
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Bogucki, D.J. (author), Huguenard, K. (author), Haus, B.K. (author), Özgökmen, T.M. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Laxague, N.J.M. (author)Our understanding of temperature dissipation rate ? within the upper ocean boundary layer, which is critical for climate forecasts, is very limited. Near-surface turbulence also affects dispersion of contaminants and biogeochemical tracers. Using high-resolution optical turbulence measurements, scaling laws for ? are investigated under forcing...journal article 2015
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Terrile, E. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author), Tromp, M. (author), Verhagen, H.J. (author)Incipient motion of coarse particles under regular shoaling waves is examined. Experiments are performed to investigate the effects of bed fluid acceleration on coarse particle stability. By varying wave height, wave period and water depth, combinations of similar peak orbital velocities and weak to strong intra-wave accelerations were created....journal article 2005
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), MacMahan, J.H. (author), Thornton, E.B. (author), Stanton, T.P. (author)Numerical computations are used to explain the presence of very low frequency motions (VLFs), with frequencies less than 0.004 Hz, in the rip current velocity signals observed during the Rip-current field Experiment (RIPEX) field experiment. Observations show that the VLF motions are most intense within the surfzone and then quickly taper off in...journal article 2007
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Brown, J.A. (author), MacMahan, J.H. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Thornton, E.B. (author)Cross-shore exchange between the surf zone and the inner shelf is investigated using Lagrangian and Eulerian field measurements of rip current flows on a rip-channeled beach in Sand City, California. Surface drifters released on the inner shelf during weak wind conditions moved seaward due to rip current pulses and then returned shoreward in an...journal article 2015