Analysis of Spectra, Wave Grouping and Long Wave Phenomena of Real Measured Waves in Coastal Waters

Real coastal waves measured at 4 different locations in the world were analyzed in detail. Long travelled swell measured in the Pacific coast of Costa Rica, wind swell from the Atlantic coast of Costa Rica, short period wind waves from the Ebro Delta in Mediterranean coast of Spain, and waves measured during the passing of Hurricane Wilma near...

Energy dissipation in random breaking waves: The probability of breaking

The present wave transformation models for random waves make use of an explicit formulation of the energy dissipation. A time-averaged model has been studied in which the dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated from that in a bore of corresponding height. The probability of occurrence of breaking is derived from a wave height...