Simulating Barrier Island Evolution: Coupling Process-Based Models

Barrier islands are important features in the coastal zone, among others because they shelter the mainland from waves and storm surge. Thus, the degradation of barrier islands can pose a threat to coastal safety. Hence, there is a societal demand for understanding and predicting barrier island evolution. High energy events, such as storms and...

Dune erosion near sea walls; XBeach validation

During a storm dunes erode and provide sediment to the beach. The foreshore rises and the wave height decreases. Subsequently the wave-induced water level setup increases. Seawalls do not erode. The waves in front of the seawall remain high throughout the storm and the wave-induced water level setup hardly changes. Over a dune-dike connection a...

The longshore dimension in dune overwash modelling: Development, verification and validation of XBeach

The primary objective of this thesis is to generate a 2DH-numerical model to simulate dune overwash. The first stage in this is achieved by modifying the program code of an existing overwash model in development, XBeach, to enable 2DH calculations. In the second stage the hydrodynamics of the model are verified using theoretical and laboratory...

The effect of wave period on dune erosion

Dune erosion is a relatively fast developing cross-shore transport process which occurs during severe wave attack combined with high water levels. Large quantities of sand coming from the dunes are transported seaward. If no seaward or lateral losses occur, the sand balance will be closed in cross-shore direction. The eroded sand will deposit on...