Modified boundary conditions and field equations for a 2D surf beat model

This progress report refers to work done at the Fluid IVlechanics Section within the framework of the Netherlands Centre for Coastal Research (NCK). In the coastal zone the long wave motion may contribute significantly to the morpho-dynamics, due to its strong correlation with the short wave motion by surf beat. Also wave-group induced edge...

Characteristics of phase-averaged equations for modulated wave groups

The project concerns the influence of long waves on coastal morphology. The modelling of the combined motion of the long waves and short waves in the horizontal plane is done by phase-averaging over the short wave motion and using intra-wave modelling for the long waves, see e.g. Roelvink (1993). The evolution of the long-wave motion and the...

A new method for the generation of second-order random waves

For the generation of second-order random waves in a flume the control signal for the wave board has to be correct up to second order. An expression for this control signal is derived with the perturbation method of multiple scales. It is much less complex and requires less computation time than the expressions obtained from the full second...