Modelling wave group-scale hydrodynamics on orthogonal unstructured meshes

An unstructured hydrodynamic model is presented that is able to simulate 2D nearshore hydrodynamics on the wave group scale. A non-stationary wave driver with directional spreading, with physics similar to XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009) is linked to an improved and extended version of the existing unstructured flow solver Delft3D–FM (Kernkamp...

Contribution of infragravity waves to run-up and overwash in the pertuis breton embayment (France)

Wave run-up and dune overwash are typically assessed using empirical models developed for a specific range of often-simplistic conditions. Field experiments are essential in extending these formulae; yet obtaining comprehensive field data under extreme conditions is often challenging. Here, we use XBeach Surfbeat (XB-SB)-a shortwave-averaged...

Nonhydrostatic and surfbeat model predictions of extreme wave run-up in fringing reef environments

The accurate prediction of extreme wave run-up is important for effective coastal engineering design and coastal hazard management. While run-up processes on open sandy coasts have been reasonably well-studied, very few studies have focused on understanding and predicting wave run-up at coral reef-fronted coastlines. This paper applies the short...

Modeling cross-shore sandbar behavior on the timescale of weeks

We compare predictions of a coupled, wave-averaged, cross-shore waves-currents-bathymetric evolution model to observations of onshore and offshore nearshore sandbar migration. The observations span a 10- and 44-day period with onshore/offshore bar migration at Duck, North Carolina, and at Hasaki, Kashima Coast, Japan, respectively, a 3.5-month...