Velocity measurements in and around a permeable breakwater

Laboratory measurements in the long wave flume of the Waterlab of TU Delft to capture and obtain simultaneous laboratory measurements of the main hydrodynamic parameters generated by the response of small model scale submerged permeable rubble mound trapezoidal breakwaters (SPBs) under wave action, focusing on the turbulent wave flow...

Boussinesq modelling of wave-induced particle velocities

In this thesis, the modelling of the horizontal velocity field under waves using Boussinesqtype models is studied. Special attention is paid to the prediction of bottom velocities in view of sediment-transport formulations. Boussinesq-type models describe the propagation of weakly non-linear shallow-water waves. The depth-dependence of the...

On the time varying horizontal water velocity of single, multiple, and random gravity wave trains

In this dissertation some characteristics of the horizontal water velocity for single, multiple, and random gravity wave trains are studied. This work consists of two parts, an analogue study and hydraulic measurements. An important aspect in this work is to suggest the horizontal water velocity asymmetry as a criterion for sand movement by...