Wave overtopping processes for very mild sloping and shallow foreshores

A sea-dike system is of importance for the protection of the hinterland. However, the effect of very gentle and shallow sloping foreshores (in the order up to 1 in 1000) on wave overtopping processes has not yet been quantified enough and, thus, so far is not well understood. This dissertation seeks an answer to the question of whether the...

Deterministic and Stochastic Modelling of Ocean Surface Waves

Predicting the mean wave statistics in the nearshore, for instance the significant wave height, has predominantly been the domain of operational stochastic wave models based on the radiative transport (or energy balance) equation. Although reasonably successful in the nearshore, these models were originally developed for oceanic scales, and...