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Lowe, R. J. (author), Altomare, C. (author), Buckley, M. L. (author), da Silva, R. F. (author), Hansen, J. E. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Domínguez, J. M. (author), Crespo, A. J.C. (author)As waves interact with the slopes of coral reefs and other steep bathymetry profiles, plunging breaking usually occurs where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is triggered. Resolving these surf zone processes pose significant challenges for conventional mesh-based hydrodynamic models, due to the rapidly-deforming nature of...journal article 2022
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da Silva, Renan F. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Lowe, Ryan (author), Buckley, Mark (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)Analysis of the mean (wave-averaged) momentum balance is a common approach used to explain the physical forcing driving wave set-up and mean currents in the nearshore zone. Traditionally this approach has been applied to phase-averaged models but has more recently been applied to phase-resolving models using post-processing, whereby model...journal article 2021
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Wengrove, M. E. (author), Foster, D. L. (author), Lippmann, T. C. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Calantoni, J. (author)Bedload transport is an important mechanism for sediment flux in the nearshore. Yet few studies examine the relationship between bedform evolution and net sediment transport. Our work contributes concurrent observations of bedform mobility and bedload transport in response to wave dominant, current dominant, and combined wave-current flows in...journal article 2019
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Lowe, R. J. (author), Buckley, M. L. (author), Altomare, C. (author), Rijnsdorp, D. P. (author), Yao, Y. (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author)In this study we investigated the capabilities of the mesh-free, Lagrangian particle method (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics, SPH) to simulate the detailed hydrodynamic processes generated by both spilling and plunging breaking waves within the surf zone. The weakly-compressible SPH code DualSPHysics was applied to simulate wave breaking over...journal article 2019
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Fujimura, Atsushi G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Paris, Claire B. (author), Shanks, Alan L. (author), MacMahan, Jamie H. (author), Morgan, Steven G. (author)We investigated whether cross-shore distributions of coastal phytoplankton to the surf zone are controlled by hydrodynamics and their biological characteristics. Data from a rip-channeled beach indicate that concentrations of phytoplankton are higher in the surf zone than offshore. To examine how phytoplankton is transported toward the shore,...journal article 2018
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Morgan, Steven G. (author), Shanks, Alan L. (author), MacMahan, Jamie H. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Feddersen, Falk (author)Plankton are transported onshore, providing subsidies of food and new recruits to surf-zone and intertidal communities. The transport of plankton to the surf zone is influenced by wind, wave, and tidal forcing, and whether they enter the surf zone depends on alongshore variation in surf-zone hydrodynamics caused by the interaction of breaking...review 2018
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Fujimura, Atsushi G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Paris, Claire B. (author), Shanks, Alan L. (author), MacMahan, Jamie H. (author), Morgan, Steven G. (author)Larvae of intertidal invertebrates need to cross the surf zone to settle in their adult habitat. Onshore transport of invertebrate larvae and detritus at a steep beach was simulated with a biophysical larval tracking model. Hydrodynamic model calculations were performed for 24 h after a 24 h spin-up stage with bathymetry and averaged wave...journal article 2017
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Horner-Devine, Alexander R. (author), Pietrzak, J.D. (author), Souza, Alejandro J. (author), McKeon, Margaret A. (author), Meirelles, Saulo (author), Henriquez, M. (author), Flores, Raúl P. (author), Rijnsburger, S. (author)We present a new mechanism for cross-shore transport of fine sediment from the nearshore to the inner shelf resulting from the onshore propagation of river plume fronts. Onshore frontal propagation is observed in moorings and radar images, which show that fronts penetrate onshore through the nearshore and surf zone, almost to the waterline....journal article 2017
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Shanks, Alan L. (author), Morgan, Steven G. (author), MacMahan, Jamie (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Larvae in the coastal ocean are transported toward shore by a variety of mechanisms. Crossing the surf zone is the last step in a shoreward migration and surf zones may act as semipermeable barriers altering delivery of larvae to the shore. We related variation in the structure of intertidal barnacle populations to surf zone width (surf zone...journal article 2017
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Zijlema, M. (author)This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to propagation of irregular waves in a barred surf zone, and the model results are discussed by comparing against an extensive laboratory data set. This study focus not only on wave transformation in the surf zone, but also on the numerical prediction of...conference paper 2014
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Senechal, N. (author), Abadie, S. (author), Gallagher, E. (author), MacMahan, J. (author), Masselink, G. (author), Michallet, H. (author), Reniers, A. (author), Ruessink, G. (author), Russell, P. (author), Sous, D. (author)A large multi-institutional nearshore field experiment was conducted at Truc Vert, on the Atlantic coast of France in early 2008. Truc Vert’08 was designed to measure beach change on a long, sandy stretch of coast without engineering works with emphasis on large winter waves (offshore significant wave height up to 8 m), a three-dimensional...journal article 2011
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Luijendijk, A. (author), Henrotte, J. (author), Walstra, D.J.R. (author), van Ormondt, M. (author)A quasi-three-dimensional model (quasi-3D) has been developed through the implementation of an analytical 1DV flow model in existing depth-averaged shallow water equations. The model includes the effects of waves and wind on the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocities. Comparisons with data from both physical and field cases show that...conference paper 2010
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Jacobs, R.P.M. (author)The nearshore zone is an active zone that can be quite inhospitable to humans due to violent wave breaking and strong rip currents. Rip currents are shore normal jet-like currents that typically extend from near the shoreline out past the line of breaking waves. Observations have concluded that a rip current system generally consists of 4 parts....master thesis 2010
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MacMahan, J.H. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Thornton, E.B. (author)Observations of velocity fluctuations with periods between about 4 and 30 min, thus longer than infragravity waves and referred to as very low frequency (VLF) surf zone motions, are described and compared with numerical simulations. The VLF motions discussed here exclude instabilities (generated by the wave-driven alongshore current velocity...journal article 2010
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Brown, J. (author), MacMahan, J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Thornton, E. (author)Absolute and relative diffusivity are measured on a rip-channeled beach using 30 position-tracking drifters released in clusters (4–12 drifters) deployed on 7 days with different wave forcing and tidal elevations at Sand City, Monterey Bay, California. Diffusivity and dispersion were found to be larger on days with rip current flow patterns and...journal article 2009
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), MacMahan, J.H. (author), Thornton, E.B. (author), Stanton, T.P. (author), Henriquez, M. (author), Brown, J.W. (author), Brown, J.A. (author), Gallagher, E. (author)The retention of floating matter within the surf zone on a rip-channeled beach is examined with a combination of detailed field observations obtained during the Rip Current Experiment and a three-dimensional (3-D) wave and flow model. The acoustic Doppler current profiler–observed hourly vertical cross-shore velocity structure variability over a...journal article 2009
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Benit, M.P. (author)As waves enter the surf-zone, the wave spectra undergo drastic transformations because of depth-induced breaking and triad interactions. Any arbitrary spectrum will converge towards a smooth, universal shape in which initially higher harmonic peaks emerge that disappear as wave propagate further into the surf-zone. The current formulation of...master thesis 2009
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Treffers, R.B. (author)Recent study has shown that 3D computations of the morphological development of a coast shows irregularities compared with the 2DH (depth-averaged) computations. Therefore a validation of the surf zone currents computed using the 2DH (depth-averaged) and 3D approach in Delft3D is made. The 2DH and 3D approach are compared using an idealized case...master thesis 2009
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Klein, M.D. (author)Coastal erosion is increasingly being prevented by the application of shoreface nourishments. Although they are applied successfully, their development and their impact on the coastal system is still difficult to predict. Especially the effects of shoreface nourishments on the already existing rhythmic bed forms in the surf zone are unknown. The...doctoral thesis 2006
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- Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author), Kessel, T. van (author) report 2002