The influence of breaking waves on the vertical velocity distribution in the surf zone

In this report we describe the development and calibration of a model which predicts the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocities induced by waves, the so-called undertow. Location of interest is the nearshore region where the flow is induced by both breaking and non-breaking waves. The model consists out of three modules. The first...

Characteristics of Turbulence Structure and Undertow in the Surf Zone

The characteristic motion of water under breaking waves and the turbulence structure in the surf zone were investigated through detailed two-dimensional velocity measurements in a wave flume. Significant difference was found between the breaking processes in the outer and inner regions of the surf zone. The velocity field in each region consists...