A consistently-scaled frequency domain nonlinear mild-slope equation model for surface wave propagation

As surface waves propagate from deep water toward shallow coastal areas, their ensuing transformation is due to the influence of bathymetry and several important phenomena, such as refraction, shoaling ,and nonlinear effects. Nonlinear wave models based on the classical Boussinesq equation(Peregrine, 1967)have evidenced good performance in...

Assessment of wave overtopping based on numerical modelling and historic events for an early warning system

Low-lying coastal areas can be very vulnerable to extreme storms inducing overtopping and flood events with severe socioeconomic consequences. Also, the associated risk is expected to increase due to sea level rise and coastal population growth. Under this threat, early warning systems (EWS) are a crucial tool for coastal planning and management...

Proposal and verification of rip current detection using AI

There are from 2,000 to 3,000 rescues including those of unconscious people every year on the beaches of Japan, as shown in Fig. 1. The occurrence of drowning accidents is mainly caused by the rip current (Ishikawa et al., 2014), it accounts for 48 % of drowning accidents, as shown in Fig. 2. Also, in Australia, the United States and the United...

A knowledge intervention to explore stakeholders’ understanding of a dynamic coastal nature reserve

As quantitative modelling can be used to build stakeholder understanding for management decisions, and can help build consensus (Stave, 2003), a system dynamics modelling study of the abiotic dynamics of an archetypical small estuary, the Slufter in the Netherlands is formulated. The model is used in combination with an analysis of stakeholders’...

A knowledge intervention to explore stakeholders’ understanding of a dynamic coastal nature reserve

As quantitative modelling can be used to build stakeholder understanding for management decisions, and can help build consensus (Stave, 2003), a system dynamics modelling study of the abiotic dynamics of an archetypical small estuary, the Slufter in the Netherlands is formulated. The model is used in combination with an analysis of stakeholders’...