Measurement errors of instruments for velocity, wave heigt, sand concentration and bed levels in field conditions

Field measurements of hydrodynamics (fluid velocities and wave height), sediment dynamics (sand concentrations) and morphodynamics (bar behaviour) as performed during the COAST3D campaigns at the Egmond site in 1998 and at the Teignmouth site in 1999 inevitably involve the problem of the accuracy of the measured variables. The measurement errors...

Surf-Zone Hydrodynamics

Review paper on the recent progress in the field of wave modelling in the surf zone. The authors have the following concluding remarks (taken directly from the rapport): Wave breaking provides the forcing for larger scale motions in the surf zone. It is therefore probably both somewhat ironic as well as unfortunate that at the present time there...

Characteristics of Turbulence Structure and Undertow in the Surf Zone

The characteristic motion of water under breaking waves and the turbulence structure in the surf zone were investigated through detailed two-dimensional velocity measurements in a wave flume. Significant difference was found between the breaking processes in the outer and inner regions of the surf zone. The velocity field in each region consists...