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Grandiek, Teun (author)This study focuses on the infragravity (IG) waves at 5 measurement sites (Brouwershavense Gat 2 (BG2), Oosterschelde 4 (OS4), Cadzand, Hansweert and Bath) in the Scheldt region, examining their characteristics in these waters as well as to what extent they can be modelled using SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). To facilitate this, data...master thesis 2024
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Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)Coastal wave forecasting over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective models. A well-known efficient modelling approach is the quadratic approach (often referred to as frequency-domain...journal article 2024
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Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)Spectral information of coastal waves and the associated statistical parameters (e.g., the significant wave height and mean wave period) over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective...journal article 2024
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Reyns, J.A.H. (author), McCall, Robert (author), Ranasinghe, Roshanka (author), van Dongeren, Ap (author), Roelvink, D. (author)An unstructured hydrodynamic model is presented that is able to simulate 2D nearshore hydrodynamics on the wave group scale. A non-stationary wave driver with directional spreading, with physics similar to XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009) is linked to an improved and extended version of the existing unstructured flow solver Delft3D–FM (Kernkamp...journal article 2023
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ZHANG, XINYI (author)Infragravity (IG) waves (0.005-0.04 Hz) are surface waves that can dominate the nearshore hydrodynamics and can impact various coastal processes (e.g., run-up, overwash). A proper offshore description of incident IG waves is required for storm impact models, which generally assume a local equilibrium between sea-swell (SS) waves (0.04-0.33 Hz)...master thesis 2022
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Michels, Dirk-Jan (author)On the east coast of Romania, at Eforie, coastal erosion manifests. To strengthen the coastal area a large coastal protection project was setup involving beach nourishment combined with the construction of breakwaters. The breakwaters are designed with the well-known modified Van der Meer formulas. To ensure confidence in the breakwaters...master thesis 2022
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Solomou, Christodoulos (author)The coastal safety of the dunes are of high importance for low laying countries (Chen et al., 2017). This is especially true for the Netherlands as it is used officially as a safety measure against flooding from extreme weather since 1984 (Rijkswaterstaat, 1989). As of current 1D modelling of the waves is an acceptable method for the Dutch coast...master thesis 2022
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Nguyên, Hà (author)A sea-dike system is of importance for the protection of the hinterland. However, the effect of very gentle and shallow sloping foreshores (in the order up to 1 in 1000) on wave overtopping processes has not yet been quantified enough and, thus, so far is not well understood. This dissertation seeks an answer to the question of whether the...doctoral thesis 2022
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ZHANG, XINYI (author)Infragravity (IG) waves are long waves whose frequency ranges between 0.005 Hz to 0.04 Hz. The directional properties of IG waves are essential in various engineering fields, but few spectra reconstruction methods have been tested to be robust for the last forty years. In this study, artificial wave signals were created to check the accuracy and...student report 2022
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)The Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model has been extended with an infragravity module to predict the Wave-Group-Forced (WGF) infragravity response to a frequency-directional sea-swell spectrum at a mildly sloping alongshore uniform beach. To that end the SWAN model has been extended with an WGF-infragravity source term denoted S<sub>sb<...journal article 2022
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Buckley, Mark L. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Pomeroy, Andrew (author), Storlazzi, Curt D. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), da Silva, Renan F. (author), Contardo, Stephanie (author), Green, Rebecca H. (author)Wave breaking on the steep fore-reef slopes of shallow fringing reefs can be effective at dissipating incident sea-swell waves prior to reaching reef shorelines. However, wave setup and free infragravity waves generated during the sea-swell breaking process are often the largest contributors to wave-driven water levels (wave runup) at the...journal article 2022
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Matsuba, Yoshinao (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Shimozono, Takenori (author)Understanding directional spectra of infragravity (IG) waves composed of free and bound components is required due to their impacts on various coastal processes (e.g., coastal inundation and morphological change). However, conventional reconstruction methods of directional spectra relying on linear wave theory are not applicable to IG waves...journal article 2022
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van Noort, Rieneke (author)Coral reefs are vital to the prosperity of the world and the local communities by providing food and coastal protection. Coral reefs are home to 25% of marine life and have therefore gained the nickname ’rainforest of the sea’. However, the reefs are being damaged by climate change and human intervention, resulting in an alarming rate of...master thesis 2021
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author)Coastal communities across the globe are often protected by structures, such as seawalls, levees or dikes, which allow only a safe volume of water to pass over or “overtop” them due to wave action during storms. The area seaward of these structures is often characterised by shallow, gently sloping beds referred to as foreshores.<br/>As storm...doctoral thesis 2021
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Fa, Chen (author)Recent analysis on measurements in the North Sea has shown a large amount of wave energy ranging in infragravity bands in the North Sea during storm events. To better understand the generation and propagation of free infragravity waves, the SWAN model is used to inspect the infragravity wave pattern, the infragravity wave origins, and the...master thesis 2021
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Naporowski, Remy (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Akrish, G. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author)Coastal safety assessments with wave-resolving storm impact models require a proper offshore description for the incoming infragravity (IG) waves. This boundary condition is generally obtained by assuming a local equilibrium between the directionally-spread incident sea-swell wave forcing and the bound IG waves. The contribution of the free...journal article 2021
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Van Der Meer, Jentsje (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Hirayama, Katsuya (author)The state-of-The-Art formulas for mean wave overtopping (q) assessment typically require wave conditions at the toe of the structure as input. However, for structures built either on land or in very shallow water, obtaining accurate estimates of wave height and period at the structure toe often proves difficult and requires the use of either...journal article 2021
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Wiegel, M.F. (author), de Boer, W.P. (author), van Koningsveld, M. (author), van der Hout, A.J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Seaport operability is key to the economic viability of ports. Metocean conditions (e.g., wind, short waves, and infragravity waves) affect this operability when certain thresholds are exceeded. This paper describes a method for the global mapping of seaport operability risk indicators using open-source metocean data. This global-scale...journal article 2021
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de Beer, A. F. (author), McCall, R. T. (author), Long, J. W. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)The prediction of wave runup, as well as its components, time-averaged setup and the time-varying swash, is a key element of coastal storm hazard assessments, as wave runup controls the transitions between morphodynamic response types such as dune erosion and overwash, and the potential for flooding by wave overtopping. While theoretically...journal article 2021
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Daouk, H. (author)This report presents the methodology and findings of a study on the impacts of free long waves on dune erosion predictions in XBeach. In this paper a distinction is made between two types of infragravity waves: bound infragravity waves and free infragravity waves. Bound infragravity waves are generated by short-wave group forcings and are bound...master thesis 2020