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Janssen, T.T. (author)As ocean surface waves radiate into shallow coastal areas and onto beaches, their lengths shorten, wave heights increase, and the wave shape transforms from nearsinusoidal to the characteristic saw-tooth shapes at the onset of breaking; in the ensuing breaking process the wave energy is cascaded to small-scale turbulent motions in the surf zone....doctoral thesis 2006
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- Dingemans, M.W. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author), Bosma, J. (author), De Vriend, H.J. (author), Vogel, J.A. (author) conference paper 1986