On the accuracy of internal wave generation method in a non-hydrostatic wave model to generate and absorb dispersive and directional waves

The weakly reflective wave generation is a wave generation and absorption method in phase-resolving models, based on the assumption that the waves propagating towards the wave generation boundary are small amplitude shallow water waves with direction perpendicular to the boundary. This assumption makes the method weakly reflective for...

Advanced modelling of wave penetration in ports

A main challenge port engineers had to tackle in recent years is wave penetration inside a harbour, as it determines vessels’ safe sailing and mooring, possibly causes unwanted vessel movements, and unequivocally regulates the execution of port operations. A physical scale model can describe wave penetration in a complete way. However, the...

Physical modelling of reflection on gentle coasts: Comparing methods to analyse long waves and optimising the lay-out for a wave absorber to minimise reflection in a wave flume

Studying mangroves in the field can be very difficult; therefore it is in some situations better to model in a flume. The question is, to what extend are the situation in the field and the situation in the flume comparable with each other? This study focusses on reflection in the wave flume. Wave energy in a flume can be damped by placing a wave...

Numerical study of regular and irregular wave interaction with vertical breakwaters

In this study regular and irregular waves are simulated with a numerical model. The aim of this study is to perform a numerical investigation into the reflection and transmission of the different waves forcing in a porous breakwaters. There are different types of numerical models available for solving the behaviour of waves in coastal regions...

Non-Hydrostatic Wave modeling in Partly Sheltered Harbor Basins

The determination of wave conditions in partly sheltered areas is a challenging task for coastal engineers. Knowledge about these conditions is important for the design of coastal structures, the planning and operation of ports. Numerical models play an important role in the assessment of these conditions. Various types of models have been...

Numerical and experimental research of wave interaction with a porous breakwater

The design formula for rubble mound breakwaters by Van der Meer has an unclear Notional Permeability term. This term causes a lot of confusion for designers. In the past many people have tried to derive a better formulation for that term by experimental and analytical research. The goal of this study was to obtain a better formulation along a...