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Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author)Refraction of narrow-band surface waves in coastal areas can result in wave-focal zones where due to interference, wave statistics vary rapidly and on similar length scales as those of individual waves. However such interference patterns, or wave coherence, are not accounted for in conventional stochastic wave models that are based on the energy...conference paper 2012
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Smit, P.B. (author), Janssen, T.T. (author), Herbers, T.H.C. (author)Refraction of narrow-band surface waves in coastal areas can result in wave-focal zones where due to interference, wave statistics vary rapidly and on similar length scales as those of individual waves. However such interference patterns, or wave coherence, are not accounted for in conventional stochastic wave models that are based on the energy...conference paper 2012
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Janssen, T.T. (author)As ocean surface waves radiate into shallow coastal areas and onto beaches, their lengths shorten, wave heights increase, and the wave shape transforms from nearsinusoidal to the characteristic saw-tooth shapes at the onset of breaking; in the ensuing breaking process the wave energy is cascaded to small-scale turbulent motions in the surf zone....doctoral thesis 2006
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Bruinsma, J. (author), Janssen, P.A.E.M. (author), Komen, G.J. (author), Peeck, H.H. (author), Saraber, M.J.M. (author), De Voogt, W.J.P. (author)The purpose of this report is to give a description of the GONO computercode, which is operational at KNMI for many years now. The program was developed by J.W. Sanders, and its deep water version is based on a Norwegian wave prediction model. built by C. Haug in the sixties. Shallow water effects are however important in the southern part of...report 1980