1D source term interactions for shallow lakes in SWAN

During the calibration of SWAN for shallow water lakes in the Netherlands, problems have been encountered. Especially the emergence of an unnatural, secondary peak in the low frequency part of the energy density spectrum poses problems. Therefore, this investigation aims to address the nonlinear shallow water source terms in SWAN that may...

Comparative analysis of bore propagation over long distances using conventional linear and KdV-based nonlinear Fourier transform

In this paper, we study the propagation of bores over a long distance. We employ experimental data as input for numerical simulations using COULWAVE. The experimental flume is extended numerically to an effective relative length of x/h=3000, which allows all far-field solitons to emerge from the undular bore in the simulation data. We apply the...

Localized stationary seismic waves predicted using a nonlinear gradient elasticity model

This paper aims at investigating the existence of localized stationary waves in the shallow subsurface whose constitutive behavior is governed by the hyperbolic model, implying non-polynomial nonlinearity and strain-dependent shear modulus. To this end, we derive a novel equation of motion for a nonlinear gradient elasticity model, where the...

A nonlinear, non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves: Infragravity wave dynamics on a sloping beach

A fully nonlinear non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves is derived based on the nonlinear shallow water equations to study the nearshore dynamics of infragravity (IG) waves. Based on simulations of waves on a relatively moderate and mild beach slope with a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model (SWASH), the new theory shows that spatial...

Modelling for analysis of refraction effects on overtopping in a complex estuary

Alternative Source Terms for SWAN in the Coastal Region

This paper presents the application of new source terms in SWAN for the dominant water wave physics in the coastal zone: depth-induced breaking and triad wave-wave interactions. We present results demonstrating increased modelling skill in the prediction of bulk wave parameters e.g. significant wave height and of the spectral shape compared to...

On the added value of coupled wind-wave-current modelling

Tides, currents, wind, waves, and sea level (surge) influence each other in several ways. These interactions are often not accounted for. We here review some recent papers that report results from coupled modelling with the aim to get an impression of how large coupled effects might be, and in which regions and under which circumstances they...

Measured wind-wave climatology Lake IJssel (NL) + Errata

In the period 1997-2007, an extensive wind and wave measuring campaign has been carried out on Lake IJssel and Lake Sloten in The Netherlands. The aim of this campaign was to gather and analyse welldocumented wind and wave measurements of high quality, for a range of fetch, depth and (strong) wind conditions. The data should serve a number of...

SWAN fysica plus: Project HR-ontwikkeling

Modified boundary conditions and field equations for a 2D surf beat model

This progress report refers to work done at the Fluid IVlechanics Section within the framework of the Netherlands Centre for Coastal Research (NCK). In the coastal zone the long wave motion may contribute significantly to the morpho-dynamics, due to its strong correlation with the short wave motion by surf beat. Also wave-group induced edge...

Interaction of Water Waves with a Density-Stratified Fluid in a Rectangular Trench

The interaction of normally incident time-periodic water waves with a density-stratified fluid in a rectangular trench is studied experimentally and theoretically; the fluid outside the trench is homogeneous. This investigation has focused on the excitation of internal waves in the trench by surface waves, and the effects of the internal...

Guide for the program Exact-NL

A detailed description is given of a set of programs called EXACT-NL, which computes fetch- or duration limited wave growth with an explicit expression for the resonant four-wave interactions. This guide is meant as a user's manual. lt describes the principles and usage of each program of the EXACT-NL model. We used the EXACT-NL model for the...

Cross-swell

Laboratory measurements and theoretical derivation of the resulting wave field caused by two incoming regular wave wave fields with the same period, but different direction. Test were performed in the wave basin of Delft University of Technology

Influence of free-stream Mach number on transonic shock-wave boundary-layer interaction

An experiment is described in which a nominal normal shock impinges on a turbulent flat plate boundary layer. The wall pressure distribution in the interaction region was measured for Mach numbers in front of the shock of 1.40, 1.44 and 1.46. The Reynolds number based on shock position was 18 X 10(6) and based on momentum thickness at the start...