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Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)Spectral information of coastal waves and the associated statistical parameters (e.g., the significant wave height and mean wave period) over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective...journal article 2024
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Liu, Yuxuan (author), Eeltink, Debbie (author), van den Bremer, T.S. (author), Adcock, Thomas A.A. (author)Wave breaking is a complex physical process about which open questions remain. For some applications, it is critical to include breaking effects in phase-resolved envelope-based wave models such as the non-linear Schrödinger. A promising approach is to use machine learning to capture breaking effects. In the present paper we develop the...journal article 2024
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Perry, Benjamin (author), Huisman, Bas (author), Antolínez, José A. Á. (author), Hesp, Patrick A. (author), Miot da Silva, Graziela (author)The bimodal wave climate of the semi-protected shallow Gulf St Vincent in South Australia has been analyzed through a forty-year (1980-2020) wave hindcast and an investigation into the climatic drivers of wave climate anomalies is presented. The sea and swell partitions of the wave climate were modelled independently as well as using an...journal article 2024
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Akrish, G. (author)Spectral wave models are widely used for wave prediction over large spatio-temporal scales. Over global scales, spectral models (e.g. WAM and WAVEWATCH III) are used regularly by environmental modelling centers, such as the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) and the American National Center for Environmental Prediction ...doctoral thesis 2023
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Zou, Tao (author), Niu, Xinbo (author), Ji, Xingda (author), Chen, X. (author), Tao, Longbin (author)In marine environment, floating photovoltaic (FPV) plants are subjected to wind, wave and current loadings. Waves are the primary source of fatigue damage for FPVs. The climate change may accumulatively affect the wave conditions, which may result in the overestimation or underestimation of fatigue damage. This paper aims to present a...journal article 2023
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da Silva, Renan F. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Buckley, Mark L. (author)Nearshore rocky reefs with scales of order 10–100 m are common along the world's coastline and often shape wave-driven hydrodynamics and shoreline morphology in their lee. The interaction of waves with these reefs generally results in either two or four-cell mean circulation systems (2CC and 4CC, respectively), with diverging flows behind the...journal article 2023
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van Essen, S.M. (author), Seyffert, Harleigh C. (author)Green water and slamming wave impacts can lead to severe damage or operability issues for marine structures. It is therefore essential to consider their probability and loads in design. This is difficult, as impacts are both hydrodynamically complex and relatively rare. The complexity requires high-fidelity modeling (experiments or CFD),...journal article 2023
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Lowe, R. J. (author), Altomare, C. (author), Buckley, M. L. (author), da Silva, R. F. (author), Hansen, J. E. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Domínguez, J. M. (author), Crespo, A. J.C. (author)As waves interact with the slopes of coral reefs and other steep bathymetry profiles, plunging breaking usually occurs where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is triggered. Resolving these surf zone processes pose significant challenges for conventional mesh-based hydrodynamic models, due to the rapidly-deforming nature of...journal article 2022
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Nederkoorn, T. P. (author), Seyffert, Harleigh C. (author)Very large waves, such as rogue waves, can be dangerous for ships and offshore structures. There is no consensus on the theoretical occurrence probability of these rogues and ocean measurements containing rogue waves are rare. This paper addresses the long-term occurrence probability of rogue waves using time-extreme (TE) and space–time...journal article 2022
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da Silva, Renan F. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Buckley, Mark L. (author)Engineered and natural submerged coastal structures (e.g., submerged breakwaters and reefs) modify incident wave fields and thus can alter hydrodynamic processes adjacent to coastlines. Although submerged structures are generally assumed to promote beach protection by dissipating waves offshore and creating sheltered conditions in their lee,...journal article 2022
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Oosterlo, P. (author)This dissertation focuses on the Eems-Dollard estuary in the north of the Netherlands and contributes to the MVED (’Meerjarige Veldmetingen Eems-Dollard’) field measurement project in the area. The Eems-Dollard estuary is part of the Wadden Sea, a shallow shelf sea with barrier islands, deep tidal channels, shallow tidal flats and wetlands. The...doctoral thesis 2021
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de Ridder, M.P. (author), Smit, Pieter B. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), McCall, Robert T. (author), Nederhoff, Kees (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)A 2-layer non-hydrostatic model with improved dispersive behaviour is presented. Due to the assumption of a constant non-hydrostatic pressure distribution in the lower layer, the dispersive behaviour is improved without much additional computational time. A comparison with linear wave theory showed that this 2-layer model gives a better...journal article 2021
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Vasarmidis, Panagiotis (author), Stratigaki, Vasiliki (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Troch, Peter (author)The weakly reflective wave generation is a wave generation and absorption method in phase-resolving models, based on the assumption that the waves propagating towards the wave generation boundary are small amplitude shallow water waves with direction perpendicular to the boundary. This assumption makes the method weakly reflective for...journal article 2021
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Oosterlo, P. (author), Hofland, Bas (author), van der Meer, J.W. (author), Overduin, Maarten (author), Steendam, Gosse Jan (author)Wave overtopping is typically measured in the field using overtopping tanks. In this paper, an alternative system is developed that uses two laser scanners. The system also measures wave run-up, as well as run-up depths and velocities, both during perpendicular and oblique waves on a dike in the field. The paper considers the first calibration...journal article 2021
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da Silva, Renan F. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Lowe, Ryan (author), Buckley, Mark (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)Analysis of the mean (wave-averaged) momentum balance is a common approach used to explain the physical forcing driving wave set-up and mean currents in the nearshore zone. Traditionally this approach has been applied to phase-averaged models but has more recently been applied to phase-resolving models using post-processing, whereby model...journal article 2021
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Hendrix, Emile (author)Ventilation events are the result of masses of air being transported from the water surface along the hull, through the propeller plane. Previous research in literature has shown that ventilation induces large and sudden variations of the load on the propeller. The response of the propulsion system had not been documented before. This is a...master thesis 2020
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Ascencio Ascencio, Jaime (author)Climate change puts under pressure existing and future coastal interventions. Growing threats like sea-level rise and intensity of storms require solutions to be adaptable and resilient. Nature-based solutions have shown to tackle these challenges while providing social, environmental, and economic benefits. The role of vegetation in coastal...master thesis 2020
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Amijs, Tijn (author)The development of an Active Reflection Compensation (ARC) algorithm for a wave generator is challenging. Water behaves in a strong nonlinear way and the time available for the computation of the compensating segment displacements is short. Especially for the case where the wave height sensors are mounted on the surface of the segments. The...master thesis 2020
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van der Reijden, Ineke (author)For the design of coastal structures, the hydraulic loads that act on the coast should be known. These are often based on extrapolation of measurements. However, if the physical relation is unknown, large errors could be made. Therefore, a numerical model can be set up to take the most important processes into account.Yet, uncertainties are...master thesis 2020
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Guillou, Nicolas (author), Lavidas, G. (author), Chapalain, Georges (author)Over recent decades, the exploitation of wave energy resources has sparked a wide range of technologies dedicated to capturing the available power with maximum efficiency, reduced costs, and minimum environmental impacts. These different objectives are fundamental to guarantee the development of the marine wave energy sector, but require also...review 2020