The relative contributions of free waves and bound waves to the formation of an extreme wave event remains a topic of interest in offshore engineering. A variety of methods have been proposed for identifying and removing the bound wave components. The method of “phase separation” or “phase manipulation” repeats simulations/experiments of a wave field with an offset in the initial phase of the wave components and relies upon summation of the resulting wave fields to isolate the bound harmonics, following from a Stokes expansion in steepness; the method has proven effective in isolating bound harmonics but requires that all cases be repeated. Alternatively, the bound harmonics can be removed using a three-dimensional fast Fourier transform (3D-FFT) of the wave field. However, the Fourier transform requires periodicity in the signal and assumes homogeneity in space and stationarity in time, producing spurious modes otherwise. We compare the phase separation and 3D-FFT approaches for a steep, focusing wave group in deep water using the numerical simulation tool, OceanWave3D, and discuss the effectiveness of both methods.@en

An increased number of rogue waves, relative to standard distributions, can be induced by unidirectional waves passing over abrupt decreases in water depth. We investigate this phenomenon in a more general setting of multidirectional waves. We examine the influence of the directionality on the occurrence probability of rogue waves using laboratory experiments and fully nonlinear potential flow simulations. Based on the analysis of the statistics of random waves, we find that directional spreading reduces the formation probability of rogue waves relative to unidirectional seas. Nevertheless, for typical values of directional spreading in the ocean (15∘–30∘), our numerical results suggest that there is still a significant enhancement to the number of rogue waves just beyond the top of a depth discontinuity.@en

We study the evolution of unidirectional water waves from a randomly forced input condition with uncorrelated Fourier components. We examine the kurtosis of the linearised free surface as a convenient proxy for the probability of a rogue wave. We repeat the laboratory experiments of Onorato et al. (Phys. Rev. E, vol. 70, 2004, 067302), both experimentally and numerically, and extend the parameter space in our numerical simulations. We consider numerical simulations based on the modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation and the fully nonlinear water wave equations, which are in good agreement. For low steepness, existing analytical models based on the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLS) are found to be accurate. For cases which are steep or have very narrow bandwidths, these analytical models over-predict the rate at which excess kurtosis develops. In these steep cases, the kurtosis in both our experiments and numerical simulations peaks before returning to an equilibrium level. Such transient maxima are not predicted by NLS-based analytical models. Above a certain threshold of steepness, the steady-state value of kurtosis is primarily dependent on the spectral bandwidth. We also examine how the average shape of extreme events is modified by nonlinearity over the evolution distance, showing significant asymmetry during the initial evolution, which is greatly reduced once the spectrum has reached equilibrium. The locations of the maxima in asymmetry coincide approximately with the locations of the maxima in kurtosis. @en

We have investigated steep three-dimensional surface gravity wave groups formed by dispersive focusing using a fully nonlinear potential flow solver. We find that third-order resonant interactions result in rapid energy transfers to higher wavenumbers and reduced directional spreading during focusing, followed by spectral broadening during defocusing, forming steep wave groups with augmented kinematics and a prolonged lifespan. If the wave group is initially narrow-banded, quasi-degenerate interactions arise, characterised by energy transfers along the resonance angle, of the Phillips 'figure-of-eight' loop. Spectral broadening due to the quasi-degenerate interactions facilitates non-degenerate interactions, characterised by oblique energy transfers at approximately to the spectral peak. We consider the influence of steepness, finite depth, directional spreading and the high-wavenumber tail on spectral evolution. Steepness is found to augment both the quasi-degenerate and non-degenerate interactions similarly. However, a reduction in depth is found to weaken the quasi-degenerate interactions more severely than the non-degenerate interactions. We observe that increased directional spreading reduces spectral evolution, partially because wave groups with more spreading focus for a shorter duration due to linear dispersion. However, we also find that directional spreading reduces the peak rates of energy transfer. Inclusion of the high-wavenumber tail of the Joint North Sea Wave Project spectrum further reduces rates of energy transfer compared with a Gaussian wavenumber spectrum. Thus, directional spreading and the high-wavenumber tail may be integral to a form of spectral equilibrium that reduces rapid energy transfers during a steep wave event.@en

When making directional surface gravity waves in a wave tank or when initialising numerical simulations of the ocean, the wave spectrum is often curtailed suppressing higher frequencies and wavenumbers. We consider the impact of doing this by numerically simulating two seminal experiments, those of Onorato et al. (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 627, 2009, pp. 235–257, R2) and Latheef & Swan (Proc. R. Soc. A, vol. 469, no. 2152, 2013, p. 20120696). We simulate waves using a fully nonlinear potential-flow model. We find that curtailing the spectrum can have a significant impact on the subsequent evolution. In particular, for cases where the spectrum has been curtailed, the nonlinear physics produces significantly more extreme or rogue waves than are observed in the case where the full spectral tail was included in the initial conditions, and this difference persists over tens of periods after the waves are initialised. This suggests that sea states that are ‘out of equilibrium’ (i.e. with their tails removed) can produce a greater number of rogue waves. We show this can also have an impact on predicted loads on offshore infrastructure.@en