In a coral reef system, the reef barrier protects the lagoon from incoming ocean waves favoring the development of a relatively calm ecosystem in the middle of a much more energetic domain. Incident sea-swell waves (SS) are filtered and transformed while passing over the reef ; and simultaneously long waves (with usually wave periods greater than 20 s in such a context) are generated. These long waves are important drivers for marine submersion along low-lying islands. Thus, for several years, the scientific community has increased its effort in the understanding of reef-lagoon wave energy spectral distribution. In particular, works have focused on the origin of infragravity waves (IG) classically observed in the frequency band [0.004 ; 0.04] Hz. It has been shown that IG are forced mainly by wave groups, either through the release of incoming bound waves or through the oscillation of the breaking point. Waves and IG overpassing the reef might also drive the emergence of much longer waves termed VLF (Very Low Frequency) waves, some of which being possibly resonant waves (Gawehn et al., 2016), a category of long waves that are still poorly understood in reef-lagoon context.

The aim of this study is to explore a set of pressure time series measured on a reef-lagoon system in French Polynesia in order to characterize the spatial, frequency and temporal distribution of IG / VLF energy. An additional purpose is to create a methodology capable of identifying, in pressure time series, any type of long wave developing in the IG / VLF bands.

Coral reefs represent an efficient natural mechanical coastal defense against ocean waves. The focus of this study is La Saline fringing coral reef, located in the microtidal West of La Réunion Island in the Indian Ocean, frequently exposed to Southern Ocean swell and cyclonic events. The aim is to provide a better understanding of the reef's coastal defense characteristics for several Southern Ocean swell events. Pressure sensors were placed across the reef to measure water level fluctuations and to study wave transformation. A numerical model (XBeach surfbeat), validated using field observations, was used to deepen understanding of wave transformation, wave setup and runup. Field measurements and model outputs show that as gravity waves dissipate over the reef, and frequency-dependent dissipation of infragravity waves by bottom-friction occurs, the reef acts as a low-pass filter. Wave-induced setup is found to be the dominant hydrodynamic component. Setup and runup are each 98% and 79% driven by the offshore significant wave height, and 2% and 21% driven by the tide. The modulation of the water level by setup is the main contributor to runup in the fringing reef. At semidiurnal timescales, setup and runup are in antiphase with tidal variations as lower water levels result in higher gravity wave energy dissipation, setup and runup. Simple-to-use transfer functions relating incident wave characteristics to these hydrodynamic components are proposed. The effects of bottom friction and water level on the defensive capacity of the coral reef highlight future implications of structural damage and sea level rise.