This study examines the importance of free infragravity (FIG) waves in the North Sea using a recent collection of wave measurements and a newly developed unstructured SWAN model. The measurements include new observations of infragravity waves at offshore (30–40 m water depth) and nearshore (10–20 m water depth) locations in the southern North Sea. These observations serve as the basis for model optimization and verification. Good agreement is obtained between model predictions and measurements during two recent storm periods, including severe storms with unusual wind directions and high wind speeds (e.g., “Storm Babet”). Model investigation along the coasts of Belgium and the Netherlands demonstrated a strong dependence between nearshore FIG conditions (i.e., energy intensity and sources) and storm characteristics (i.e., alongshore wind pattern and storm track). Specifically, several storms have demonstrated significant contributions of FIG energy originating from remote sources (e.g., the coasts of UK and Denmark). This suggests that nearshore FIG conditions in the North Sea cannot be determined based on the local sea-swell conditions alone and may be significantly underestimated if non-local contributions are ignored. Finally, modelled and measured results at nearshore locations along the Dutch coast revealed that under storm conditions FIG energy can be an order of magnitude higher than energy due to bound infragravity (BIG) waves. This result, augmented with estimated ratios of free and forced infragravity energy at the shoreline, emphasizes the necessity of considering the FIG waves as an integral part of coastal safety assessments along the coasts of the North Sea.

This research investigates how salt marshes contribute to both wave energy dissipation and spectral period transformation, advancing their role as a nature-based solution for coastal protection. Using laboratory simulations with a scaled barren foreshore, salt marsh and dike model, we examine the interactions between vegetation, water depth, and wave properties under varied conditions, including storm scenarios with irregular waves. Results indicate a case specific threshold at which the salt marsh model attenuates energy optimally, as for very shallow water depths wave energy is predominantly dissipated by the barren foreshore. The spectral wave period T m − 1 , 0 increases when waves propagate from deep to shallow water depths, as a result of wave breaking and generation of infragravity waves. The presence of salt marsh vegetation further enhances this effect by preferentially damping high frequency components. This highlights that an increase in T m − 1 , 0 in vegetated environments may not always correspond to an increased hydrodynamic load on the dike.

High-resolution wave measurements at intermediate water depth are required to improve coastal impact modeling. Specifically, such data sets are desired to calibrate and validate models, and broaden the insight on the boundary conditions that force models. Here, we present a wave data set collected in the North Sea at three stations in intermediate water depth (6–14 m) during the 2021/2022 storm season as part of the RealDune/REFLEX experiments. Continuous measurements of synchronized surface elevation, velocity and pressure were recorded at 2–4 Hz by Acoustic Doppler Profilers and an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter for a 5-month duration. Time series were quality-controlled, directional-frequency energy spectra were calculated and common bulk parameters were derived. Measured wave conditions vary from calm to energetic with 0.1–5.0 m sea-swell wave height, 5–16 s mean wave period and W-NNW direction. Nine storms, i.e., wave height beyond 2.5 m for at least six hours, were recorded including the triple storms Dudley, Eunice and Franklin. This unique data set can be used to investigate wave transformation, wave nonlinearity and wave directionality for higher and lower frequencies (e.g., sea-swell and infragravity waves) to compare with theoretical and empirical descriptions. Furthermore, the data can serve to force, calibrate and validate models during storm conditions. Dataset: https://doi.org/10.4121/233f11ff-7804-4777-8b32-92c4606e56d8 Dataset License: CC-BY 4.0.

This paper studies hydrodynamic and morphodynamic field measurements of two storms with dune erosion in the swash-dune collision regime. It analyses (a) the behavior and change of the total dune profile over the course of both storms (b) the erosion rate at the dune base, (c) the slumping frequency, and (d) the volumes of individual slumps. The erosion rate at the dune base shows a strong positive correlation with the square of the total water levels that were exceeded for 2% of the time, recorded approximately 5–6 m in front of the dune face (r = 0.91). Individual slumping events occurred when nearly all sediments from previous slumps at the dune base were transported away from the dune. A strong positive correlation was found between the time between two consecutive slumps, and the volume of the first slump divided by the mean erosion rate between the two slumps (r = 0.90). As a consequence, smaller slumps were followed more rapidly by a new slump than larger slumps, under identical erosion rates. The majority of the slumping events occurred after the last wave impact before a slumping event, when the instantaneous water level in front of the dune was still retreating. No clear process based on the incident hydrodynamics could be identified that determined the size of individual slumps. Overall, the results of this study suggest that the morphodynamic behavior of the upper dune face and dune crest is primarily steered by the erosion at the dune base.

In spectral wave models, the nonlinear triad source term accounts for the transfer of energy to the bound higher harmonics. This paper presents an extension to commonly used spectral models that resolves the evolution of the bound wave energy by keeping track of the energy that has been bound by the triad interactions. This extension is referred to as the bound wave evolution (BWE) model. From this, the spatial evolution of the bound wave height is obtained, which serves as a proxy for the nonlinear wave shape. The accuracy of these bound wave heights, and thus wave shape predictions, is highly dependent on the accuracy of the triad source term. Therefore, in this study, the capability of the LTA and SPB triad formulations to capture the growth of the bound wave height is evaluated. For both of these formulations, it is found that slope dependent calibration parameters are required. Overall, despite being computationally more expensive, the SPB method proves to be significantly more accurate in predicting the bound wave evolution. In the shoaling zone, where the bound wave energy is dominated by triads, the BWE model is well capable of predicting the nonlinear wave’s shape. In the surf zone, however, where a combination of triads and wave breaking control the spectral evolution, the BWE model over-predicts the bound wave height. Nevertheless, this paper shows the promising capabilities of spectral models to predict the nonlinear wave shape.

In a coral reef system, the reef barrier protects the lagoon from incoming ocean waves favoring the development of a relatively calm ecosystem in the middle of a much more energetic domain. Incident sea-swell waves (SS) are filtered and transformed while passing over the reef ; and simultaneously long waves (with usually wave periods greater than 20 s in such a context) are generated. These long waves are important drivers for marine submersion along low-lying islands. Thus, for several years, the scientific community has increased its effort in the understanding of reef-lagoon wave energy spectral distribution. In particular, works have focused on the origin of infragravity waves (IG) classically observed in the frequency band [0.004 ; 0.04] Hz. It has been shown that IG are forced mainly by wave groups, either through the release of incoming bound waves or through the oscillation of the breaking point. Waves and IG overpassing the reef might also drive the emergence of much longer waves termed VLF (Very Low Frequency) waves, some of which being possibly resonant waves (Gawehn et al., 2016), a category of long waves that are still poorly understood in reef-lagoon context.

The aim of this study is to explore a set of pressure time series measured on a reef-lagoon system in French Polynesia in order to characterize the spatial, frequency and temporal distribution of IG / VLF energy. An additional purpose is to create a methodology capable of identifying, in pressure time series, any type of long wave developing in the IG / VLF bands.

Infragravity (IG) waves are relatively long waves with typical periods of several tens of seconds to several minutes. The energy at the IG band plays an important role in nearshore areas. For example, IG waves can significantly contribute to dune erosion and sediment transport (e.g., Roelvink et al., 2009), and may excite harbor oscillations (e.g., Bowers, 1977). Furthermore, IG waves may result in destructive inundation events (e.g., Roeber and Bricker, 2015). These documentations of IG waves' impacts emphasise the necessity to account for IG contributions as part of coastal hazard assessments, especially under storm conditions.

Nearshore hydro- and morphodynamic data were collected during a field experiment under calm conditions, moderate conditions, and storm conditions with dune erosion in the collision regime. The experiment was conducted on the Sand Engine near Kijkduin, the Netherlands, from October 18, 2021, to January 7, 2022. Two artificial unvegetated dunes were constructed just above the high water line to measure storm erosion and dune impacts from higher water levels and waves. During the experiment, three storms occurred that resulted in significant erosion of both dunes. The collected hydrodynamic data include pressure sensor and velocimeter data along two cross-shore transects. The collected morphodynamic data include bathymetry and topography surveys, optical backscatter sensor data in the inner surf zone, and a continuous cross-shore line-scanning lidar data set of the dune face. This comprehensive data set can be used to (1) study relevant nearshore hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes that occur during calm conditions, moderate conditions, and storm conditions with dune erosion in the collision regime, and (2) validate existing dune erosion models.

Physical or numerical models are common tools to investigate the interaction between waves and marine structures. The decomposition of the water level into incident and reflected wave components is often required, as most design variables (overtopping, run-up) are linked to the incoming wave characteristics. Also, an accurate solution can provide information on the distribution of energy in the wave spectrum and the spread of energy from the fundamental wave components to the lower and higher frequencies (Lin and Huang, 2004). Thus, utilizing an appropriate wave reflection analysis is critical in the analysis of such experiments.

Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not straightforward as it requires appropriate boundary conditions in combination with a large domain size and long simulation duration. In this paper, we extended the non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH with additional terms that account for the influence of a depth-uniform ambient current on the wave dynamics, in which the current field can be taken from an external source (e.g., from observations or a circulation model). We verified the model ability by comparing predictions to results from linear theory, laboratory experiments and a spectral wave model that accounts for wave interference effects. With this extension, the model was able to account for current-induced changes to the wave field (i.e., changes to the wave amplitude, length and direction) due to following and opposing currents, and two classical examples of sheared currents (a jet-like current and vortex ring). Furthermore, the model captured the wave dynamics in the presence of strong opposing currents. This includes reflections of relatively small amplitude waves at the theoretical blocking point, and transmission of breaking waves beyond the theoretical blocking point for larger wave amplitudes. The proposed model extension allows phase-resolving models to more accurately and efficiently simulate the wave dynamics in coastal regions with tidal and/or wind-driven flows.

The present paper reports on a field experiment performed over a shallow, roughness-varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. The spectral wave energy balance is examined, outside the breaking zone and accounting for non-linear transfers and mean current, to estimate the wave friction factor. This latter varies from 0.05 to 4, with dependence on the ratio between near-bed orbital amplitude and roughness height well predicted by an adjusted parameterization from Madsen (1995). The present results are discussed with respect to other field data recovered on coral and rocky grounds.

A field experiment to study dune erosion was conducted on the Sand Engine near Kijkduin, the Netherlands, from November 7th 2021 to January 7th 2022. Two artificial unvegetated dunes were constructed near the high water line, and experienced significant erosion through avalanching during three storms. This paper aims to identify what drives dune erosion through avalanching by using the collected data and equilibrium theory. Results suggest that the cumulative volume eroded through avalanching during a single high water is positively correlated with the profile mismatch between the pre-storm profile and a ‘storm equilibrium profile’, described by a 2/3rd power law, an empirical coefficient A, and the total water level. This mismatch is quantified by calculating the area integral of the profile that is acquired when the upper 35 m of the pre-storm profile is subtracted from the upper 35 m of the equilibrium profile. Avalanching commences when this mismatch becomes larger than approximately 0, after which 1 m3/m of sediment erodes from the dune face for every 3 m3/m mismatch. In addition, during one event avalanching occurred even though the elevation of the total water level did not exceed the initial elevation of the dune toe. This implies that a total water level that exceeds the initial elevation of the dune toe is not a requisite for avalanching and a collision regime to occur, which contradicts conventional definitions of dune erosion regimes. These results have implications on risk assessment of storm conditions on dune erosion.

Infragravity (IG) waves are key drivers for coastal erosion and thus need to be properly included in process-based modelling of coastal hazards. Uncertainties remain regarding the offshore boundary conditions for these long waves. Typically, only bound IG waves are included at the boundary, which means that the possible contribution of free IG waves, such as those radiated from distant coastlines, is neglected. Recent studies however suggest that incoming free IG waves could be significant, particularly in semi-enclosed basins such as the North Sea where they could contribute to coastal hazards (e.g., Reniers et al., 2021, Rijnsdorp et al. 2021). The objective of this work is to improve the understanding of the incoming IG wave field along the Dutch coast. We will quantify how bound and free IG waves develop in intermediate water depths and assess in which conditions (onshore directed) free IG waves become significant.

Storm conditions can lead to excessive dune erosion with potential floods as a consequence. Barrier islands and low-lying countries protected by dunes are especially vulnerable to dune erosion. To properly assess the risks these areas face, a clear understanding of the physical processes during dune erosion is required. One of such processes is the effect of wave obliquity on sediment transport in the surf zone. Classic dune erosion models assume that dune erosion volumes decrease under oblique wave attack, because the time-averaged cross-shore undertow decreases in magnitude and with that offshore directed sediment transport decreases (Steetzel, 1993). More recent process-based erosion models predict an increase in erosion quantities, because the generated longshore currents increase surf zone sediment concentrations, and with that offshore directed sediment transport increases (Den Heijer, 2013). The main objective of this study is to analyse the effect of wave obliquity on dune erosion through a field experiment, by quantifying the effect of the decreasing undertow but increasing alongshore current on sediment concentrations in the surf zone.

Changing (wind) climate might influence the magnitude, direction, and frequency of wave systems (Lobeto et al., 2021). However, in coastal engineering applications, generalized wave parameters are commonly used in climate change assessments with the risk of, for example, misrepresenting the nearshore transformation of wind-driven wave climates (Hegermiller et al., 2017). In consequence, these uncertainties in the nearshore (wind) climate will affect, amongst others, ship navigation, the implementation of marine renewable energy farms, the feasibility of coastal infrastructure and defences, or the efficiency of sandy coastal maintenance, and thus the decision-making of long-term, multidecadal coastal strategies (Rijksoverheid, 2013), especially when they are designed accounting for the Building with Nature concept (de Vriend et al., 2015). This study analyses the importance and application of considering multiple coexisting wave trains on the Dutch shoreface.

Storm conditions can lead to excessive dune erosion with potential floods as a consequence. Barrier islands and low-lying countries protected by dunes are especially vulnerable to dune erosion. To properly assess the risks these areas face, a clear understanding of the physical processes during dune erosion is required.

An international field experiment was conducted to study dune erosion during storm surges from November 6 2021 until January 6 2022. on the Sand Engine. During the Realdune/Reflex experiment, two prototype un-vegetated dunes of 5.5 m high and 150 m long were built just above the high waterline. Due to a different shoreline orientation and nearshore bathymetry, these dunes eroded differently during moderate storm conditions. 3 storms were captured during the campaign.

This abstract presents preliminary results of morphodynamic change during these 3 storms, by means of profile changes and erosion volumes.

Meteotsunami waves can be triggered by atmospheric disturbances accompanying tropical cyclone rainbands (TCRs) before, during, and long after a tropical cyclone (TC) makes landfall. Due to a paucity of high-resolution field data along open coasts during TCs, relatively little is known about the atmospheric forcing that generate and resonantly amplify these ocean waves, nor their coastal impact. This study links high-resolution field measurements of sea level and air pressure from Hurricane Harvey (2017) with a numerical model to assess the potential for meteotsunami generation by sudden changes in air pressure accompanying TCRs. Previous studies, through the use of idealized models, have suggested that wind is the dominant forcing mechanism for TCR-induced meteotsunami with negligible contributions from air pressure. Our model simulations show that large air pressure perturbations (∼1–3 mbar) can generate meteotsunamis that are similar in period (∼20 min) and amplitude (∼0.2 m) to surf zone observations. The measured air pressure disturbances were often short in wavelength, which necessitates a numerical model with high temporal and spatial resolution to simulate meteotsunami triggered by this mechanism. Sensitivity analysis indicates that air pressure forcing can produce meteotsunami with amplitudes O(0.5 m) and large spatial extents, but model results are sensitive to atmospheric factors, including model uncertainties (length, forward translation speed, and trajectory of the air pressure disturbance), as well as oceanographic factors (storm surge). The present study provides observational and numerical evidence that suggest that air pressure perturbations likely play a larger role in meteotsunami generation by TCRs than previously identified.

High quality laboratory measurements of nearshore waves and morphology change at, or near prototype-scale are essential to support new understanding of coastal processes and enable the development and validation of predictive models. The DynaRev experiment was completed at the GWK large wave flume over 8 weeks during 2017 to investigate the response of a sandy beach to water level rise and varying wave conditions with and without a dynamic cobble berm revetment, as well as the resilience of the revetment itself. A large array of instrumentation was used throughout the experiment to capture: (1) wave transformation from intermediate water depths to the runup limit at high spatio-temporal resolution, (2) beach profile change including wave-by-wave changes in the swash zone, (3) detailed hydro and morphodynamic measurements around a developing and a translating sandbar.

The prediction of wave runup, as well as its components, time-averaged setup and the time-varying swash, is a key element of coastal storm hazard assessments, as wave runup controls the transitions between morphodynamic response types such as dune erosion and overwash, and the potential for flooding by wave overtopping. While theoretically able to simulate the dominant low-frequency swash, previous studies using the infragravity-wave–resolving model XBeach (XBSB) have shown an underestimation of the observed swash variance and wave runup, which was in part related to the absence of incident-band swash motions in the model. Here, we use an incident-band wave-resolving, non-hydrostatic version of the XBeach model (XBNH) to simulate wave runup observed during the SandyDuck '97 experiment on an intermediate–reflective sandy beach. The results show that the XBNH model describes wave runup and the individual setup and swash components well. We subsequently examine differences in wave runup prediction between the XBSB and XBNH models and find that the XBNH model is a better predictor of wave runup than XBSB for this beach, which is due to better predictions of both the incident-band and infragravity-band swash. For a range of beach states from reflective to dissipative it is shown that incident-band swash is underestimated by XBSB relative to XBNH, in particular for reflective conditions. Infragravity-band swash is shown to be lower in XBSB than XBNH for most conditions, including dissipative conditions for which the mean difference is 16% of the deep water wave height. The difference in infragravity-band swash in XBNH relative to XBSB is shown to mainly be the result of processes occurring outside the swash zone, but approximately 15% of the difference is caused by explicitly resolving incident-band wave motions within the swash zone, such as swash-swash interactions, which inherently cannot be simulated by wave-averaged models.

To calculate tsunami forces on coastal structures it is of great importance to determine the shape of the tsunami front reaching the coast. Based on literature reviews, analytical reasoning,video footage, and numerical modelling it is concluded that both the continental shelf slope and the bay geometry have a significant influence on the transformation of a tsunami wave near the coastline. After conducting 1D and 2DH wave simulations, a distinction is made between three types of tsunami waves; a non-breaking front (surging), a breaking front and an undular bore breaking front. Tsunami waves transform into these three wave types over a steep continental shelf, an intermediate sloped continental shelf, and a gentle sloped continental shelf, respectively. A new tsunami surf-similarityparameter is proposed to quantitatively predict the type of wave at the coastline, which was validated based on observations during the 2011 Tohoku Earthquake and Tsunami.