Spectral Wave Dissipation Over a Roughness-Varying Barrier Reef
D. Sous (Université de Toulon, Université de Pau et des Pays de l'Adour)
K. Martins (University of New South Wales, Université de Bordeaux)
M. F.S. Tissier (TU Delft - Environmental Fluid Mechanics)
Frédéric Bouchette (CNRS/Université de Montpellier II)
Samuel Meulé (Aix Marseille Université)
More Info
expand_more
Other than for strictly personal use, it is not permitted to download, forward or distribute the text or part of it, without the consent of the author(s) and/or copyright holder(s), unless the work is under an open content license such as Creative Commons.
Abstract
The present paper reports on a field experiment performed over a shallow, roughness-varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. The spectral wave energy balance is examined, outside the breaking zone and accounting for non-linear transfers and mean current, to estimate the wave friction factor. This latter varies from 0.05 to 4, with dependence on the ratio between near-bed orbital amplitude and roughness height well predicted by an adjusted parameterization from Madsen (1995). The present results are discussed with respect to other field data recovered on coral and rocky grounds.