Spectral Wave Dissipation Over a Roughness-Varying Barrier Reef

Journal Article (2023)
Author(s)

D. Sous (Université de Toulon, Université de Pau et des Pays de l'Adour)

K. Martins (University of New South Wales, Université de Bordeaux)

M. F.S. Tissier (TU Delft - Environmental Fluid Mechanics)

Frédéric Bouchette (CNRS/Université de Montpellier II)

Samuel Meulé (Aix Marseille Université)

Environmental Fluid Mechanics
Copyright
© 2023 Damien Sous, Kévin Martins, M.F.S. Tissier, Frédéric Bouchette, Samuel Meulé
DOI related publication
https://doi.org/10.1029/2022GL102104
More Info
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Publication Year
2023
Language
English
Copyright
© 2023 Damien Sous, Kévin Martins, M.F.S. Tissier, Frédéric Bouchette, Samuel Meulé
Environmental Fluid Mechanics
Issue number
5
Volume number
50
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Abstract

The present paper reports on a field experiment performed over a shallow, roughness-varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. The spectral wave energy balance is examined, outside the breaking zone and accounting for non-linear transfers and mean current, to estimate the wave friction factor. This latter varies from 0.05 to 4, with dependence on the ratio between near-bed orbital amplitude and roughness height well predicted by an adjusted parameterization from Madsen (1995). The present results are discussed with respect to other field data recovered on coral and rocky grounds.