JR
J. Rutten
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10 records found
1
Book chapter
(2026)
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Christine M. Baker, Katherine Anarde, Marion Tissier, Jantien Rutten, Paul van Wiechen, Ryan Mieras, Sierd De Vries
Storm-elevated water levels can lead to waves attacking the dune face (dune collision regime), resulting in avalanching and shoreward translation of the dune face. Predicting dune erosion rates during storms is critical, yet, our knowledge of the relative role of infragravity and sea-swell waves on runup excursion on an eroding dune face relies primarily on numerical modeling. Here, we assess the role of sea-swell waves, infragravity waves, and dune geometry on runup excursion during dune collision with observations collected during the Realdune/REFLEX field experiment. In situ and lidar observations were collected from Oct. 2021 to Jan. 2022 at the Sand Engine in the Netherlands. Incident sea-swell and infragravity wave contributions resulting in runup on an artificial, unvegetated dune during two winter storms were quantified. We find that infragravity wave crests contributed to the largest runup events on the dune. Additionally, runup excursion is modified by dune geometry, where more sediment at the dune base, associated with a relatively mild dune face, reduced runup extent relative to events with steeper dune faces. This suggests that shallower dune geometries with more sand at the base may temporarily enhance dune safety by reducing runup.
...
Storm-elevated water levels can lead to waves attacking the dune face (dune collision regime), resulting in avalanching and shoreward translation of the dune face. Predicting dune erosion rates during storms is critical, yet, our knowledge of the relative role of infragravity and sea-swell waves on runup excursion on an eroding dune face relies primarily on numerical modeling. Here, we assess the role of sea-swell waves, infragravity waves, and dune geometry on runup excursion during dune collision with observations collected during the Realdune/REFLEX field experiment. In situ and lidar observations were collected from Oct. 2021 to Jan. 2022 at the Sand Engine in the Netherlands. Incident sea-swell and infragravity wave contributions resulting in runup on an artificial, unvegetated dune during two winter storms were quantified. We find that infragravity wave crests contributed to the largest runup events on the dune. Additionally, runup excursion is modified by dune geometry, where more sediment at the dune base, associated with a relatively mild dune face, reduced runup extent relative to events with steeper dune faces. This suggests that shallower dune geometries with more sand at the base may temporarily enhance dune safety by reducing runup.
The importance of free infragravity waves in the North Sea
Insights from field observations and unstructured SWAN modelling
Journal article
(2025)
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Gal Akrish, Ad Reniers, Dirk Rijnsdorp, Marcel Zijlema, Jantien Rutten, Marion Tissier
This study examines the importance of free infragravity (FIG) waves in the North Sea using a recent collection of wave measurements and a newly developed unstructured SWAN model. The measurements include new observations of infragravity waves at offshore (30–40 m water depth) and nearshore (10–20 m water depth) locations in the southern North Sea. These observations serve as the basis for model optimization and verification. Good agreement is obtained between model predictions and measurements during two recent storm periods, including severe storms with unusual wind directions and high wind speeds (e.g., “Storm Babet”). Model investigation along the coasts of Belgium and the Netherlands demonstrated a strong dependence between nearshore FIG conditions (i.e., energy intensity and sources) and storm characteristics (i.e., alongshore wind pattern and storm track). Specifically, several storms have demonstrated significant contributions of FIG energy originating from remote sources (e.g., the coasts of UK and Denmark). This suggests that nearshore FIG conditions in the North Sea cannot be determined based on the local sea-swell conditions alone and may be significantly underestimated if non-local contributions are ignored. Finally, modelled and measured results at nearshore locations along the Dutch coast revealed that under storm conditions FIG energy can be an order of magnitude higher than energy due to bound infragravity (BIG) waves. This result, augmented with estimated ratios of free and forced infragravity energy at the shoreline, emphasizes the necessity of considering the FIG waves as an integral part of coastal safety assessments along the coasts of the North Sea.
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This study examines the importance of free infragravity (FIG) waves in the North Sea using a recent collection of wave measurements and a newly developed unstructured SWAN model. The measurements include new observations of infragravity waves at offshore (30–40 m water depth) and nearshore (10–20 m water depth) locations in the southern North Sea. These observations serve as the basis for model optimization and verification. Good agreement is obtained between model predictions and measurements during two recent storm periods, including severe storms with unusual wind directions and high wind speeds (e.g., “Storm Babet”). Model investigation along the coasts of Belgium and the Netherlands demonstrated a strong dependence between nearshore FIG conditions (i.e., energy intensity and sources) and storm characteristics (i.e., alongshore wind pattern and storm track). Specifically, several storms have demonstrated significant contributions of FIG energy originating from remote sources (e.g., the coasts of UK and Denmark). This suggests that nearshore FIG conditions in the North Sea cannot be determined based on the local sea-swell conditions alone and may be significantly underestimated if non-local contributions are ignored. Finally, modelled and measured results at nearshore locations along the Dutch coast revealed that under storm conditions FIG energy can be an order of magnitude higher than energy due to bound infragravity (BIG) waves. This result, augmented with estimated ratios of free and forced infragravity energy at the shoreline, emphasizes the necessity of considering the FIG waves as an integral part of coastal safety assessments along the coasts of the North Sea.
Journal article
(2024)
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Jantien Rutten, Marion Tissier, Paul van Wiechen, Xinyi Zhang, Sierd de Vries, Ad Reniers, Jan-Willem Mol
High-resolution wave measurements at intermediate water depth are required to improve coastal impact modeling. Specifically, such data sets are desired to calibrate and validate models, and broaden the insight on the boundary conditions that force models. Here, we present a wave data set collected in the North Sea at three stations in intermediate water depth (6–14 m) during the 2021/2022 storm season as part of the RealDune/REFLEX experiments. Continuous measurements of synchronized surface elevation, velocity and pressure were recorded at 2–4 Hz by Acoustic Doppler Profilers and an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter for a 5-month duration. Time series were quality-controlled, directional-frequency energy spectra were calculated and common bulk parameters were derived. Measured wave conditions vary from calm to energetic with 0.1–5.0 m sea-swell wave height, 5–16 s mean wave period and W-NNW direction. Nine storms, i.e., wave height beyond 2.5 m for at least six hours, were recorded including the triple storms Dudley, Eunice and Franklin. This unique data set can be used to investigate wave transformation, wave nonlinearity and wave directionality for higher and lower frequencies (e.g., sea-swell and infragravity waves) to compare with theoretical and empirical descriptions. Furthermore, the data can serve to force, calibrate and validate models during storm conditions. Dataset: https://doi.org/10.4121/233f11ff-7804-4777-8b32-92c4606e56d8 Dataset License: CC-BY 4.0.
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High-resolution wave measurements at intermediate water depth are required to improve coastal impact modeling. Specifically, such data sets are desired to calibrate and validate models, and broaden the insight on the boundary conditions that force models. Here, we present a wave data set collected in the North Sea at three stations in intermediate water depth (6–14 m) during the 2021/2022 storm season as part of the RealDune/REFLEX experiments. Continuous measurements of synchronized surface elevation, velocity and pressure were recorded at 2–4 Hz by Acoustic Doppler Profilers and an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter for a 5-month duration. Time series were quality-controlled, directional-frequency energy spectra were calculated and common bulk parameters were derived. Measured wave conditions vary from calm to energetic with 0.1–5.0 m sea-swell wave height, 5–16 s mean wave period and W-NNW direction. Nine storms, i.e., wave height beyond 2.5 m for at least six hours, were recorded including the triple storms Dudley, Eunice and Franklin. This unique data set can be used to investigate wave transformation, wave nonlinearity and wave directionality for higher and lower frequencies (e.g., sea-swell and infragravity waves) to compare with theoretical and empirical descriptions. Furthermore, the data can serve to force, calibrate and validate models during storm conditions. Dataset: https://doi.org/10.4121/233f11ff-7804-4777-8b32-92c4606e56d8 Dataset License: CC-BY 4.0.
Abstract
(2024)
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Gal Akrish, Ad Reniers, Dirk Rijnsdorp, Marcel Zijlema, Jantien Rutten, Marion Tissier
Infragravity (IG) waves are relatively long waves with typical periods of several tens of seconds to several minutes. The energy at the IG band plays an important role in nearshore areas. For example, IG waves can significantly contribute to dune erosion and sediment transport (e.g., Roelvink et al., 2009), and may excite harbor oscillations (e.g., Bowers, 1977). Furthermore, IG waves may result in destructive inundation events (e.g., Roeber and Bricker, 2015). These documentations of IG waves' impacts emphasise the necessity to account for IG contributions as part of coastal hazard assessments, especially under storm conditions.
...
Infragravity (IG) waves are relatively long waves with typical periods of several tens of seconds to several minutes. The energy at the IG band plays an important role in nearshore areas. For example, IG waves can significantly contribute to dune erosion and sediment transport (e.g., Roelvink et al., 2009), and may excite harbor oscillations (e.g., Bowers, 1977). Furthermore, IG waves may result in destructive inundation events (e.g., Roeber and Bricker, 2015). These documentations of IG waves' impacts emphasise the necessity to account for IG contributions as part of coastal hazard assessments, especially under storm conditions.
Journal article
(2024)
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Paul van Wiechen, Jantien Rutten, Sierd de Vries, Marion Tissier, Ryan Mieras, Katherine Anarde, Christine Baker, Ad Reniers, Jan-Willem Mol
Nearshore hydro- and morphodynamic data were collected during a field experiment under calm conditions, moderate conditions, and storm conditions with dune erosion in the collision regime. The experiment was conducted on the Sand Engine near Kijkduin, the Netherlands, from October 18, 2021, to January 7, 2022. Two artificial unvegetated dunes were constructed just above the high water line to measure storm erosion and dune impacts from higher water levels and waves. During the experiment, three storms occurred that resulted in significant erosion of both dunes. The collected hydrodynamic data include pressure sensor and velocimeter data along two cross-shore transects. The collected morphodynamic data include bathymetry and topography surveys, optical backscatter sensor data in the inner surf zone, and a continuous cross-shore line-scanning lidar data set of the dune face. This comprehensive data set can be used to (1) study relevant nearshore hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes that occur during calm conditions, moderate conditions, and storm conditions with dune erosion in the collision regime, and (2) validate existing dune erosion models.
...
Nearshore hydro- and morphodynamic data were collected during a field experiment under calm conditions, moderate conditions, and storm conditions with dune erosion in the collision regime. The experiment was conducted on the Sand Engine near Kijkduin, the Netherlands, from October 18, 2021, to January 7, 2022. Two artificial unvegetated dunes were constructed just above the high water line to measure storm erosion and dune impacts from higher water levels and waves. During the experiment, three storms occurred that resulted in significant erosion of both dunes. The collected hydrodynamic data include pressure sensor and velocimeter data along two cross-shore transects. The collected morphodynamic data include bathymetry and topography surveys, optical backscatter sensor data in the inner surf zone, and a continuous cross-shore line-scanning lidar data set of the dune face. This comprehensive data set can be used to (1) study relevant nearshore hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes that occur during calm conditions, moderate conditions, and storm conditions with dune erosion in the collision regime, and (2) validate existing dune erosion models.
Avalanching of the dune face
field observations and equilibrium theory
Conference paper
(2023)
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Paul van Wiechen, Jantien Rutten, Ryan Mieras, Katherine Anarde, Marion Tissier, Sierd de Vries
A field experiment to study dune erosion was conducted on the Sand Engine near Kijkduin, the Netherlands, from November 7th 2021 to January 7th 2022. Two artificial unvegetated dunes were constructed near the high water line, and experienced significant erosion through avalanching during three storms. This paper aims to identify what drives dune erosion through avalanching by using the collected data and equilibrium theory. Results suggest that the cumulative volume eroded through avalanching during a single high water is positively correlated with the profile mismatch between the pre-storm profile and a ‘storm equilibrium profile’, described by a 2/3rd power law, an empirical coefficient A, and the total water level. This mismatch is quantified by calculating the area integral of the profile that is acquired when the upper 35 m of the pre-storm profile is subtracted from the upper 35 m of the equilibrium profile. Avalanching commences when this mismatch becomes larger than approximately 0, after which 1 m3/m of sediment erodes from the dune face for every 3 m3/m mismatch. In addition, during one event avalanching occurred even though the elevation of the total water level did not exceed the initial elevation of the dune toe. This implies that a total water level that exceeds the initial elevation of the dune toe is not a requisite for avalanching and a collision regime to occur, which contradicts conventional definitions of dune erosion regimes. These results have implications on risk assessment of storm conditions on dune erosion.
...
A field experiment to study dune erosion was conducted on the Sand Engine near Kijkduin, the Netherlands, from November 7th 2021 to January 7th 2022. Two artificial unvegetated dunes were constructed near the high water line, and experienced significant erosion through avalanching during three storms. This paper aims to identify what drives dune erosion through avalanching by using the collected data and equilibrium theory. Results suggest that the cumulative volume eroded through avalanching during a single high water is positively correlated with the profile mismatch between the pre-storm profile and a ‘storm equilibrium profile’, described by a 2/3rd power law, an empirical coefficient A, and the total water level. This mismatch is quantified by calculating the area integral of the profile that is acquired when the upper 35 m of the pre-storm profile is subtracted from the upper 35 m of the equilibrium profile. Avalanching commences when this mismatch becomes larger than approximately 0, after which 1 m3/m of sediment erodes from the dune face for every 3 m3/m mismatch. In addition, during one event avalanching occurred even though the elevation of the total water level did not exceed the initial elevation of the dune toe. This implies that a total water level that exceeds the initial elevation of the dune toe is not a requisite for avalanching and a collision regime to occur, which contradicts conventional definitions of dune erosion regimes. These results have implications on risk assessment of storm conditions on dune erosion.
Conference paper
(2023)
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Jantien Rutten, Marion Tissier, Xinyi Zhang, Ad Reniers, Paul van Wiechen, Sierd de Vries, Dirk Rijnsdorp, Jan Willem Mol, Rinse Wilmink
Infragravity (IG) waves are key drivers for coastal erosion and thus need to be properly included in process-based modelling of coastal hazards. Uncertainties remain regarding the offshore boundary conditions for these long waves. Typically, only bound IG waves are included at the boundary, which means that the possible contribution of free IG waves, such as those radiated from distant coastlines, is neglected. Recent studies however suggest that incoming free IG waves could be significant, particularly in semi-enclosed basins such as the North Sea where they could contribute to coastal hazards (e.g., Reniers et al., 2021, Rijnsdorp et al. 2021). The objective of this work is to improve the understanding of the incoming IG wave field along the Dutch coast. We will quantify how bound and free IG waves develop in intermediate water depths and assess in which conditions (onshore directed) free IG waves become significant.
...
Infragravity (IG) waves are key drivers for coastal erosion and thus need to be properly included in process-based modelling of coastal hazards. Uncertainties remain regarding the offshore boundary conditions for these long waves. Typically, only bound IG waves are included at the boundary, which means that the possible contribution of free IG waves, such as those radiated from distant coastlines, is neglected. Recent studies however suggest that incoming free IG waves could be significant, particularly in semi-enclosed basins such as the North Sea where they could contribute to coastal hazards (e.g., Reniers et al., 2021, Rijnsdorp et al. 2021). The objective of this work is to improve the understanding of the incoming IG wave field along the Dutch coast. We will quantify how bound and free IG waves develop in intermediate water depths and assess in which conditions (onshore directed) free IG waves become significant.
The effect of wave obliquity on dune erosion
A field experiment
Conference paper
(2023)
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Paul van Wiechen, Jantien Rutten, Marion Tissier, Sierd de Vries, Ryan Mieras, Katherine Anarde, Stefan Aarninkhof
Storm conditions can lead to excessive dune erosion with potential floods as a consequence. Barrier islands and low-lying countries protected by dunes are especially vulnerable to dune erosion. To properly assess the risks these areas face, a clear understanding of the physical processes during dune erosion is required. One of such processes is the effect of wave obliquity on sediment transport in the surf zone. Classic dune erosion models assume that dune erosion volumes decrease under oblique wave attack, because the time-averaged cross-shore undertow decreases in magnitude and with that offshore directed sediment transport decreases (Steetzel, 1993). More recent process-based erosion models predict an increase in erosion quantities, because the generated longshore currents increase surf zone sediment concentrations, and with that offshore directed sediment transport increases (Den Heijer, 2013). The main objective of this study is to analyse the effect of wave obliquity on dune erosion through a field experiment, by quantifying the effect of the decreasing undertow but increasing alongshore current on sediment concentrations in the surf zone.
...
Storm conditions can lead to excessive dune erosion with potential floods as a consequence. Barrier islands and low-lying countries protected by dunes are especially vulnerable to dune erosion. To properly assess the risks these areas face, a clear understanding of the physical processes during dune erosion is required. One of such processes is the effect of wave obliquity on sediment transport in the surf zone. Classic dune erosion models assume that dune erosion volumes decrease under oblique wave attack, because the time-averaged cross-shore undertow decreases in magnitude and with that offshore directed sediment transport decreases (Steetzel, 1993). More recent process-based erosion models predict an increase in erosion quantities, because the generated longshore currents increase surf zone sediment concentrations, and with that offshore directed sediment transport increases (Den Heijer, 2013). The main objective of this study is to analyse the effect of wave obliquity on dune erosion through a field experiment, by quantifying the effect of the decreasing undertow but increasing alongshore current on sediment concentrations in the surf zone.
Dune erosion during storm surges
The realdune/reflex experiment at the sand engine
Conference paper
(2022)
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Paul van Wiechen, Jantien Rutten, Ryan Mieras, Katherine Anarde, Magda Wrobel, Marion Tissier, Sierd de Vries
Storm conditions can lead to excessive dune erosion with potential floods as a consequence. Barrier islands and low-lying countries protected by dunes are especially vulnerable to dune erosion. To properly assess the risks these areas face, a clear understanding of the physical processes during dune erosion is required.
An international field experiment was conducted to study dune erosion during storm surges from November 6 2021 until January 6 2022. on the Sand Engine. During the Realdune/Reflex experiment, two prototype un-vegetated dunes of 5.5 m high and 150 m long were built just above the high waterline. Due to a different shoreline orientation and nearshore bathymetry, these dunes eroded differently during moderate storm conditions. 3 storms were captured during the campaign.
This abstract presents preliminary results of morphodynamic change during these 3 storms, by means of profile changes and erosion volumes. ...
An international field experiment was conducted to study dune erosion during storm surges from November 6 2021 until January 6 2022. on the Sand Engine. During the Realdune/Reflex experiment, two prototype un-vegetated dunes of 5.5 m high and 150 m long were built just above the high waterline. Due to a different shoreline orientation and nearshore bathymetry, these dunes eroded differently during moderate storm conditions. 3 storms were captured during the campaign.
This abstract presents preliminary results of morphodynamic change during these 3 storms, by means of profile changes and erosion volumes. ...
Storm conditions can lead to excessive dune erosion with potential floods as a consequence. Barrier islands and low-lying countries protected by dunes are especially vulnerable to dune erosion. To properly assess the risks these areas face, a clear understanding of the physical processes during dune erosion is required.
An international field experiment was conducted to study dune erosion during storm surges from November 6 2021 until January 6 2022. on the Sand Engine. During the Realdune/Reflex experiment, two prototype un-vegetated dunes of 5.5 m high and 150 m long were built just above the high waterline. Due to a different shoreline orientation and nearshore bathymetry, these dunes eroded differently during moderate storm conditions. 3 storms were captured during the campaign.
This abstract presents preliminary results of morphodynamic change during these 3 storms, by means of profile changes and erosion volumes.
An international field experiment was conducted to study dune erosion during storm surges from November 6 2021 until January 6 2022. on the Sand Engine. During the Realdune/Reflex experiment, two prototype un-vegetated dunes of 5.5 m high and 150 m long were built just above the high waterline. Due to a different shoreline orientation and nearshore bathymetry, these dunes eroded differently during moderate storm conditions. 3 storms were captured during the campaign.
This abstract presents preliminary results of morphodynamic change during these 3 storms, by means of profile changes and erosion volumes.
Journal article
(2021)
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Jantien Rutten, Jaime Arriaga, Leonardo D. Montoya, Ismael J. Mariño-Tapia, Edgar Escalante-Mancera, E. Tonatiuh Mendoza, Brigitta I. van Tussenbroek, Christian M. Appendini
Massive quantities of the pelagic brown macroalgae Sargassum spp. (sargassum) have been invading the Caribbean and West African shores since 2011, causing devastating effects on the coastal ecosystem and local economy. Little is known about sargassum beaching dynamics and the capacity of the coastal system to naturally remove beached sargassum. Here, we characterize the temporal variation in arriving and beached sargassum in a reef lagoon using a 5.2-year data set of hourly optical imagery, and identify the governing hydrometeorological conditions. Image classification reveals interannual variability in the start, duration, and intensity of the sargassum arrival season. Arrivals are associated with relatively low energy onshore directed winds and waves, and offshore abundance of sargassum. Furthermore, nearshore sargassum mat size is found to decrease with decreasing wave/wind energy. Once sargassum beaches, a berm of wrack is formed. Natural wrack removal was observed under elevated water levels and increased wave action. Three types of wrack removal were distinguished, depending on the water level (Formula presented.) with respect to the berm crest height (Formula presented.) and berm crest toe (Formula presented.) : gradual berm destruction with gaps developing in the seaward berm edge that grow larger with time (Type I; (Formula presented.)) and abrupt berm destruction with part of the wrack depositing on the upper beach (Type II; (Formula presented.)) or in the dunes (Type III; (Formula presented.)). Higher energy waves activate the reef circulation, which is suspected to flush part of the wrack out of the reef lagoon. We propose a conceptual model of nearshore sargassum dynamics in a reef lagoon system.
...
Massive quantities of the pelagic brown macroalgae Sargassum spp. (sargassum) have been invading the Caribbean and West African shores since 2011, causing devastating effects on the coastal ecosystem and local economy. Little is known about sargassum beaching dynamics and the capacity of the coastal system to naturally remove beached sargassum. Here, we characterize the temporal variation in arriving and beached sargassum in a reef lagoon using a 5.2-year data set of hourly optical imagery, and identify the governing hydrometeorological conditions. Image classification reveals interannual variability in the start, duration, and intensity of the sargassum arrival season. Arrivals are associated with relatively low energy onshore directed winds and waves, and offshore abundance of sargassum. Furthermore, nearshore sargassum mat size is found to decrease with decreasing wave/wind energy. Once sargassum beaches, a berm of wrack is formed. Natural wrack removal was observed under elevated water levels and increased wave action. Three types of wrack removal were distinguished, depending on the water level (Formula presented.) with respect to the berm crest height (Formula presented.) and berm crest toe (Formula presented.) : gradual berm destruction with gaps developing in the seaward berm edge that grow larger with time (Type I; (Formula presented.)) and abrupt berm destruction with part of the wrack depositing on the upper beach (Type II; (Formula presented.)) or in the dunes (Type III; (Formula presented.)). Higher energy waves activate the reef circulation, which is suspected to flush part of the wrack out of the reef lagoon. We propose a conceptual model of nearshore sargassum dynamics in a reef lagoon system.