Authored

17 records found

To be commercially viable, wave energy converters (WECs) will need to be deployed in arrays or “wave farms” to generate significant amounts of energy and to have the costs of these farms minimised. However, when designing a wave farm, there are a number of trade-offs to be made b ...
Wave breaking on the steep fore-reef slopes of shallow fringing reefs can be effective at dissipating incident sea-swell waves prior to reaching reef shorelines. However, wave setup and free infragravity waves generated during the sea-swell breaking process are often the largest ...

A nonlinear, non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves

Infragravity wave dynamics on a sloping beach

A fully nonlinear non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves is derived based on the nonlinear shallow water equations to study the nearshore dynamics of infragravity (IG) waves. Based on simulations of waves on a relatively moderate and mild beach slope with a non-hydrosta ...
Understanding directional spectra of infragravity (IG) waves composed of free and bound components is required due to their impacts on various coastal processes (e.g., coastal inundation and morphological change). However, conventional reconstruction methods of directional spectr ...
Predictions of the wave-induced response of floating structures that are moored in a harbour or coastal waters require an accurate description of the (nonlinear) evolution of waves over variable bottom topography, the interactions of the waves with the structure, and the dynamics ...
Coastal safety assessments with wave-resolving storm impact models require a proper offshore description for the incoming infragravity (IG) waves. This boundary condition is generally obtained by assuming a local equilibrium between the directionally-spread incident sea-swell wav ...
As waves interact with the slopes of coral reefs and other steep bathymetry profiles, plunging breaking usually occurs where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is triggered. Resolving these surf zone processes pose significant challenges for conventional mesh-bas ...
Long waves are generated and transform when short-wave groups propagate into shallow water, but the generation and transformation processes are not fully understood. In this study we develop an analytical solution to the linearized shallow-water equations at the wave-group scale, ...
Two-dimensional mean wave-driven flow and setup dynamics were investigated at a reef-lagoon system at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia, using the numerical wave-flow model, SWASH. Phase-resolved numerical simulations of the wave and flow fields, validated with highly detailed fie ...
Engineered and natural submerged coastal structures (e.g., submerged breakwaters and reefs) modify incident wave fields and thus can alter hydrodynamic processes adjacent to coastlines. Although submerged structures are generally assumed to promote beach protection by dissipating ...
Nearshore rocky reefs with scales of order 10–100 m are common along the world's coastline and often shape wave-driven hydrodynamics and shoreline morphology in their lee. The interaction of waves with these reefs generally results in either two or four-cell mean circulation syst ...
Analysis of the mean (wave-averaged) momentum balance is a common approach used to explain the physical forcing driving wave set-up and mean currents in the nearshore zone. Traditionally this approach has been applied to phase-averaged models but has more recently been applied to ...
Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not straightforward as it requires appropriate bounda ...
Wave-induced currents are an ubiquitous feature in coastal waters that can spread material over the surf zone and the inner shelf. These currents are typically under resolved in non-hydrostatic wave-flow models due to computational constraints. Specifically, the low vertical reso ...
This paper presents a numerical model to simulate the evolution of waves and their interactions with a restrained ship that is moored in coastal waters. The model aims to be applicable at the scale of a harbour or coastal region, while accounting for the key physical processes th ...
Infragravity waves are low-frequency surface waves that can impact a variety of nearshore and oceanic processes. Recent measurements in the North Sea showed that significant bursts of infragravity energy occurred during storm events. Using a spectral wave model, we show that a su ...
Ships that are moored at a berth in coastal waters are subject to various external forcings, including the hydrodynamic loads that are induced by the local wave field. If the ship motions resulting from these wave-induced loads become too large, they may hamper safe operations (e ...

Contributed

3 records found

Infragravity waves on the North Sea

Generation, propagation and dissipation mechanisms

Recent analysis on measurements in the North Sea has shown a large amount of wave energy ranging in infragravity bands in the North Sea during storm events. To better understand the generation and propagation of free infragravity waves, the SWAN model is used to inspect the infra ...
The coastal safety of the dunes are of high importance for low laying countries (Chen et al., 2017). This is especially true for the Netherlands as it is used officially as a safety measure against flooding from extreme weather since 1984 (Rijkswaterstaat, 1989). As of current 1D ...
For both developed and developing nations, coastal zones form an attractive location for urban settlements. With the expected increase in the earth’s population, coastal areas will experience a further increase of inhabitants. Floating city development could therefore be an inter ...