Composite beaches, characterised by a dissipative sand beach backed by a steep cobble berm, exhibit unique hydro and morphodynamic behaviors due to their bimodal sediment size distribution. This study analyzes morphological variability and wave runup on a composite beach in Borth, Wales, using continuous Lidar data collected from July 2021 to October 2024. Results indicate that the lower berm face is dynamic due to regular swash inundation, while the primary berm crest remains stable with minimal changes. Secondary berms located seaward of the primary berm can be formed and removed within a single tide. This is in contrast to sand beaches where they tend to translate landward, controlled by the neap-spring tidal cycle. Existing wave runup equations provide reasonable estimates of total water level, but perform worse than previously observed at other composite beach locations due to a higher dependence of wave runup on offshore wave height.

The study of nearshore wave-induced currents, which play a critical role in marine transport, has motivated numerous laboratory experiments, and yet, the understanding of cross-shore wave-induced currents under controlled laboratory conditions remains incomplete. For the first time, 3D Particle Tracking Velocimetry is applied in a laboratory flume to measure Lagrangian wave-induced currents in front of a slope under five different regular wave conditions. The wave-induced velocity profiles evolve over time, reaching a quasi-equilibrium after approximately one hour. In most cases, the observed profiles do not align with the theoretical Stokes or conduction solutions. The surface drift is consistently smaller than theoretically predicted, and in some cases even negative, indicating the presence of a strong Eulerian-mean return current in the upper portion of the water column. The observed patterns cannot be explained solely by the relative water depth kh and wave steepness ka, leading to the hypothesis that convection processes contribute to these discrepancies. Further investigation of visually observed coherent convective structures, such as vortex trains, will be undertaken.

This study analyzes laboratory data of beach response to sea-level rise (SLR), isolating shoreline changes driven by passive flooding (PF) of the beach and consequent wave-driven processes. The disequilibrium concept relates shoreline change to instantaneous and equilibrium beach states. While PF shifts the shoreline geometrically, SLR induces disequilibrium that produces wave-driven changes due to apparent profile changes. For the first time, 24 experiments from wave flumes of different scale (including new high-low energy cyclic waves experiments) are gathered into a dimensionless data set through a scaling technique to investigate SLR-induced processes. The data indicate trends (possibly linear) between relative wave power and wave-driven shoreline changes for a given SLR, highlighting the effects of changing background wave energy. Cyclic wave experiments best represent Bruun model's behavior. Wave-energy dissipation emerges as a key variable for quantifying SLR-induced disequilibrium, offering new pathways for future improvements of equilibrium shoreline models under SLR and wave-climate change.

Waves transport particles in the direction of wave propagation with the Stokes drift. When the Earth’s rotation is accounted for, waves induce an additional (Eulerian-mean) current that reduces drift and is known as the anti-Stokes drift. This effect is often ignored in oceanic particle-tracking simulations, despite being important. Although different theoretical models exist, they have not been validated by experiments. We conduct laboratory experiments studying the surface drift induced by deep-water waves in a purpose-built rotating wave flume. With rotation, the Lagrangian-mean drift deflects to the right (counterclockwise rotation) and reduces in magnitude. Compared with two existing steady theoretical models, measured drift speed follows a similar trend with wave Ekman number but is larger. The difference is largely explained by unsteadiness on inertial time scales. Our results emphasise the importance of considering unsteadiness when predicting and analysing the transport of floating material by waves.

Chronic coastal erosion is a recurring issue that threatens the built environment and the stability of public beaches. Dynamic cobble berm revetments, which replicate natural composite beaches, are a possible option for nature-based erosion mitigation on high-energy coastlines. Dynamic cobble berm revetments are composed of a sandy foreshore and an engineered cobble berm, which evolves over time while dissipating wave energy. While dynamic cobble berm revetment projects have been constructed over the past two decades, there remains a lack of engineering guidance for many aspects of their design. In this study, we summarize the current state of the practice for the design of dynamic cobble berm revetments. We first present a review of tools that have been used for dynamic cobble berm revetment design, including their basic assumptions and potential limitations. Following, we summarize the design and performance of five dynamic cobble berm revetment projects on the outer coast of the Pacific Northwest, USA, as case studies. Based on the findings of the first two sections, an informal survey of local practitioners, and the knowledge of the author group, we propose a design process for dynamic cobble berm revetments. The design process is not prescriptive, rather, it is intended to give engineers a framework to apply existing tools until the body of dynamic revetment research can support a more prescriptive design guidance. Finally, we evaluate our confidence in the suggestions and tools in the design process, so that engineers and other practitioners can understand the limitations of the current state of the practice.

Marine pollution is a major global environmental problem. The transport and dispersion of marine pollution is driven by a wide range of hydrodynamic processes, including wave-induced currents (e.g., Stokes drift) that are generated by free-surface and internal gravity waves in density-stratified fluids. While the (Lagrangian-mean) Stokes drift is known to fundamentally change transport patterns, wave-induced Eulerian-mean currents, such as those generated in the presence of the Coriolis force due to the Earth's rotation, are generally less well understood. To address this, the Delta Transport Processes Laboratory (DTP-Lab), a multi-purpose lab with novel facilities and state-of-the-art equipment, is being constructed in the Hydraulic Engineering Laboratory at TU Delft. The DTP-Lab combines multiple components: a 4.40-m diameter turntable, which can support a (removable) 5-m long flume; a 12.7-m long stainless steel flume; a piston-type, wet-back, force-controlled surface wave generator; a pumping system to create any type of density stratification; and a 3D Particle Tracking Velocimetry (PTV) system. The design and construction of these components along with technical validation and performance tests are presented in this technical note. A scaling analysis demonstrates the suitability of the laboratory to investigate wave-induced current under rotation. The DTP-Lab will pioneer the combined experimental study of surface waves, density stratification and Coriolis forces. The DTP-Lab is presented here with the objective of giving practical information to future users and to describe its novelty and range of applications.

The presence of marine pollutants such as marine plastics has increased significantly over the last decades and poses a major environmental problem, in both the coastal and offshore area. Marine pollutants are transported, mixed and diffused in the ocean, which means the understanding and modelling of marine transport is key for mitigation purposes (Moulton et al., 2022). Additional to large scale and planetary currents that play a major role in marine transport, free surface waves, internal gravity waves in density stratified fluids and the Coriolis force due to the rotation of the Earth are also fundamental drivers of transport that need to be accounted for. The fundamental fluid mechanics processes associated with these are often not resolved in large-scale models, but are instead included in a parametrised form. However, some fundamental processes associated with wave-induced currents (e.g., Stokes drift) in rotating, density-stratified fluids with a free surface remain unclear and untested. In addition, parametrisation for different environments, forcings and time scales must be developed and tested before being implemented into models for them to reliably predict transport, accumulation and storage of marine pollutants. For this purpose, the Delta Transport Processes Laboratory (DTPLab) is being developed at TUDelft Hydraulic Engineering Laboratory. This laboratory pioneers the combined experimental study of surface waves, density stratification and Coriolis forces in a single laboratory. The DTPLab was designed with a multi- users and purposes vision, with interchangeable facilities and state-of-the-art measurement devices. This paper presents the DTPLab facilities (under construction) and equipment that make this laboratory unique in the world, and describes, as an example of what is feasible, a novel experiment that will be performed in this lab.</jats:p>

Laboratory investigations of beach morphology change under wave action are undertaken to gain insight into coastal processes, design coastal structures and validate the predictions of numerical models. For the results of such experiments to be reliable, it is necessary that they are repeatable. The equilibrium beach concept, that beach morphology will evolve to a quasi-static equilibrium shape for a given forcing suggests that experiments should be repeatable to some degree. However, sediment transport in turbulent breaking and broken waves is complex and highly variable and the level of repeatability at different temporal and spatial scales is challenging to measure, as such, previous work has restricted comparisons to small numbers of waves. Here we use the results of two identical, 20-h large-scale wave flume experiments to investigate the repeatability of sediment transport and beach morphology change under waves at timescales down to individual swash events. It is shown that while flow characteristics from identical swash events are very repeatable, the sediment transported can be very different in both magnitude and direction due to differences in turbulence, sediment advection and morphological feedback. Over longer periods containing multiple matching swash events however, the beach responds in a very similar manner, with the level of morphological repeatability increasing with time. The results also demonstrate that gross swash zone sediment transport remains high even as a beach profile approaches quasi-equilibrium, but the proportion of individual swash events that cause large sediment fluxes (>±7.5 kg/event/m) reduces with time. The results of this laboratory study indicate that beach morphology change has a level of determinism over timescales of several minutes and longer, giving confidence in the results from physical modelling studies. However, the large differences in sediment transport from apparently identical swash events questions the value in pursuing numerical predictions of sediment transport at the wave-by-wave timescale unless the reversals in sediment transport between apparently near identical swash events can also be predicted.

Pressure on the coastline is escalating due to the impacts of climate change, this is leading to a rise in sea-levels and intensifying storminess. Consequently, many regions of the coast are at increased risk of erosion and flooding. Therefore coastal protection schemes will increase in cost and scale. In response there is a growing use of nature-based coastal protection which aim to be sustainable, effective and adaptable. An example of a nature-based solution is a dynamic cobble berm revetment: a berm constructed from cobble and other gravel sediments at the high tide wave runup limit. These structures limit wave excursion protecting the hinterland from inundation, stabilise the upper beach and adapt to changes in water level. Recent experiments and field applications have shown the suitability of these structures for coastal protection, however many of the processes and design considerations are poorly understood. This study directly compares two prototype scale laboratory experiments which tested dynamic cobble berm revetments constructed with approximately the same geometry but differing gravel characteristics; well-sorted rounded gravel (DynaRev1) and poorly-sorted angular gravel (DynaRev2). In both cases the structures were tested using identical wave forcing including incrementally increasing water level and erosive wave conditions. The results presented in this paper demonstrate that both designs responded to changing water level and wave conditions by approaching a dynamically stable state, where individual gravel is mobilised under wave action but the geometry remains approximately constant. Further, both structures acted to reduce swash excursions compared to a pure sand beach. However, their morphological behaviour is response to wave action varied considerably. Once overtopping of the designed crest occurred, the poorly-sorted revetment developed a peaked crest which grew in elevation as the water level or wave height increased, further limited overtopping. By comparison, the well-sorted revetment was characterised by a larger volume of submerged gravel and a lower elevation flat crest which responded less well to changes in conditions. This occurred due to two processes: (1) for the poorly-sorted case, gravel sorting processes moved small to medium gravel material (D₅₀<70mm) to the crest and (2) the angular nature of the poorly-sorted gravel material promoted increased interlocking. Both of these processes led to a gravel matrix that is more resistant to wave action and gravitational effects. Both revetments experienced some sinking due to sand erosion beneath the front slope. The rate of sinking for the well-sorted case was larger and continued throughout due to the large pore spaces within the gravel matrix. For the poorly sorted revetment in DynaRev2, sand erosion ceased after approximately 28 h due to the development of a filter layer of small gravel at the sand-gravel interface reducing porosity at this location, hence a larger volume of sand was preserved beneath the structure. Both designs present a low-cost and effective solution for protecting sandy coastlines but from an engineering viewpoint it appears better to avoid well-sorted gravel material and greater gravel angularity has been seen to increase crest stability.

High quality laboratory measurements of nearshore waves and morphology change at, or near prototype-scale are essential to support new understanding of coastal processes and enable the development and validation of predictive models. The DynaRev experiment was completed at the GWK large wave flume over 8 weeks during 2017 to investigate the response of a sandy beach to water level rise and varying wave conditions with and without a dynamic cobble berm revetment, as well as the resilience of the revetment itself. A large array of instrumentation was used throughout the experiment to capture: (1) wave transformation from intermediate water depths to the runup limit at high spatio-temporal resolution, (2) beach profile change including wave-by-wave changes in the swash zone, (3) detailed hydro and morphodynamic measurements around a developing and a translating sandbar.

The original version of this Data Descriptor contained errors in the author affiliations. Peter Troch was incorrectly associated with DEME Group and the Department of Civil Engineering, Ghent University was inadvertently omitted. This has now been corrected in both the PDF and HTML versions of the Data Descriptor.

A large-scale laboratory experiment was completed to investigate the performance of a dynamic cobble berm revetment designed to provide sustainable coastal protection under wave attack and a rising water level. The experiment demonstrated the inherent stability of the dynamic revetment, which was observed to be reshaped by every wave but retained its overall shape throughout the experiment with almost no loss of material. By comparing with a sand beach case, it was found that the revetment reduced shoreline retreat during an erosive wave condition and reduced runup excursions, thus eliminating erosion landward of the revetment. Overall the experiment provided significant new understanding of dynamic revetments and demonstrated the potential for dynamic revetments to provide low cost, robust coastal protection.