Nonlinear surface waves over topography
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Abstract
As ocean surface waves radiate into shallow coastal areas and onto beaches, their lengths shorten, wave heights increase, and the wave shape transforms from nearsinusoidal to the characteristic saw-tooth shapes at the onset of breaking; in the ensuing breaking process the wave energy is cascaded to small-scale turbulent motions in the surf zone. This nearshore transformation of ocean waves, and the modeling thereof, is the subject of this thesis. In particular, the integral objective of the present work is to develop and verify a stochastic model for directionally spread random wave fields over topography in the nearshore.