Amsterdam's ‚care-full‘ transition - from fast fossil fashion towards a slow circular society

Abstract

The textile industry poses significant environmental and social challenges due to its globalised, linear value chain. In response, cities like Amsterdam are advancing circular economy strategies as part of broader political commitments to ecological sustainability and social equity, notably through frameworks like the Doughnut Economy. This thesis investigates how spatial planning can contribute to a more ‘care-full' circular transition of the textile value chain in the Metropolitan Region of Amsterdam.
Building on theories of care ethics and degrowth circularity, the research develops a spatial planning approach that integrates material circularity with socio-ecological values. Through a combination of policy analysis, spatial design exploration, and stakeholder engagement, the thesis demonstrates how spatial planning can operationalise circular ambitions at different scales. It argues that circular spatial planning must not only accommodate flows of textile production, reuse, repair, and recycling, but also intentionally design for care - care for materials, space, time, circular workers, and differences within communities.
The proposed 'care-full' approach includes activating underused spatial assets and repurposing existing infrastructures to support collective and commercial textile looping; improving spatial quality and accessibility; enabling shorter, zero-emission textile loops; capacity building in vulnerable communities through facilitating spaces for skill sharing and social interaction; valuing circular workers and raising awareness among consumers, and recognising the contribution of circular workers while promoting consumer awareness. Based on this framework, the thesis presents a spatial vision and strategic recommendations for the Metropolitan Region of Amsterdam that align spatial planning, policy frameworks, and governance mechanisms to support an inclusive and place-based circular textile transition.
By bridging urban design, spatial planning, governance, and circular economy policy, this thesis contributes to academic and political debates on how the circular economy can be spatialised in socially just and ecologically viable ways, thereby demonstrating an approach to operationalising the Doughnut framework. It demonstrates that spatial planning can play a critical role not only in closing material loops but also in fostering socio-ecological value for cities undergoing circular transitions.