Infragravity-wave dominance at sea-dikes fronted by very and extremely shallow foreshores

Abstract

While the significance of infragravity waves (IG) in many—often-hazardous—nearshore processes is widely-recognized, many of the empirical and numerical models used in dike safety assessments do not (directly) consider their contribution. Here, we combine physical and numerical modelling to better understand the factors that contribute to the dominance of IG waves over higher-frequency waves at the dike toe. Findings show that IG-wave dominance increases as the ratio of local water depth to offshore significant wave height decreases. Therefore, it is critical that any tool used to assess the safety of dikes fronted by very and extremely shallow foreshores accurately describe IG-wave dynamics.