Beach representation in morphodynamic predictions

Abstract

Numerical process-based morphodynamic models are widespread in coastal engineering practice and have become the new standard when it comes to assessing the impact of natural or man-made structures on coastal environments. The most common practice among engineers is to focus on a single spatial and time scale, which means either neglecting certain processes under the assumption that they will average out, or performing detailed simulations for short time-spans in order to optimize the normally limited computational resources. Despite the efforts from several authors, at the moment there is a lack of a clear methodology which would allow incorporating the relevant physical phenomena only when required, hence optimizing the computational effort.

The above leads to the main research objective of this thesis: to gain insight in what is the added value of coupling process based morphodynamic models, regarding the morphological impacts near the beach. For this purpose two models that were originally conceived to resolve different timescales are selected; XBeach as a storm model, and the new suite from Deltares, Delft3D-Flexible Mesh (D3D-FM) as a long-term morphodynamic model. The area selected as study site is Anmok beach, located at the east coast of South Korea. The coastal erosion at this location is not yet well understood (mainly due to human interventions and storms) plus the micro-tidal wave-dominated environment makes this location ideal for this study. Recent researches on this site have found that there is a delicate balance between the stormy and calm periods, where the high energy wave events are the main drivers of local morphology.

One of the main findings in this thesis is that the coupling of independently calibrated models does not necessarily provide better morphodynamic results than the results obtained by running each model separately. Including different processes such as infragravity waves or Eulerian mass transport (which enhances the offshore sediment transport in the surf zone) during highly energetic events tend to generate large supratidal beach erosion. However, the post-storm recovery mechanisms present in long-term morphodynamic models are not sufficient to bring the sediment back to the beach. Therefore, it is recommended to include all the relevant physical processes (storm erosion and post storm recovery mechanisms) when following a coupling approach in order to have a coherent morphodynamic balance. Furthermore, the coupling of models can play an important role in identifying which processes are missing or are not fully represented by the different modelling packages.

The erosive effect of cumulative storms was shown to be relevant in the short to medium term and might become a key parameter when defining, for instance, the worst case scenario regarding shoreline retreat. Despite the fact that uncoupled long-term morphodynamic models produce better average results in the case of Anmok beach, the implementation of a coupled scheme was proven to be important when the erosion due to cumulative storm effects cannot be neglected.

Among the advantages of using D3D-FM for this work is the implementation of the Basic Model Interface, which meant an important reduction in bookkeeping efforts and the possibility to seamlessly couple D3D-FM with XBeach. This procedure allowed for the incorporation of more complex phenomena (such as infragravity waves) with an acceptable increase in computational time.

A research version of Delft3D (D3D) with specialized sediment transport equations in the swash zone was tested in an attempt to enhance the post-storm recovery mechanisms. The results obtained are promising in the sense that the accretion of the shoreline and lower dry beach was reasonably enhanced, especially when considering all the limitations involved in modelling the morphodynamics of the swash zone with a stationary wave model. Another important conclusion is that these models were capable of depositing the sediments at the lower backshore at best. Hence, there is still the need of a mechanism/process capable of transporting the sediments farther upslope into the dry beach or dunes, such as aeolian transport.

The decision to undergo with a coupled or uncoupled approach depends on case-by-case basis. For current practice, it is recommended to develop a coupled simulation in the medium-term, where both storms and calm periods have significant effects and where the intra seasonal variation could be a parameter of interest. For short-term simulations, an uncoupled storm model (e.g. XBeach) is recommended as is the most accurate for such a time span. For long-term simulations, the general recommendation is to run an uncoupled long-term model such as D3D. In this case the storm erosion and post-storm recovery processes are expected to average out, being the long-term model the most suitable package to obtain average morphological results.

For future work it is recommended to add an aeolian process-based model and incorporate the swash zone sediment transport module into D3D-FM as this would move us one step closer towards the development of a fully coupled model where all the relevant processes (storm erosion, post storm recovery and aeolian transport) are included.