Numerical process-based morphodynamic models are widespread in coastal engineering practice and have become the new standard when it comes to assessing the impact of natural or man-made structures on coastal environments. The most common practice among engineers is to focus on a single spatial and time scale, which means either neglecting certain processes under the assumption that they will average out, or performing detailed simulations for short time-spans in order to optimize the normally limited computational resources. Despite the efforts from several authors, at the moment there is a lack of a clear methodology which would allow incorporating the relevant physical phenomena only when required, hence optimizing the computational effort. The above leads to the main research objective of this thesis: to gain insight in what is the added value of coupling process based morphodynamic models, regarding the morphological impacts near the beach. For this purpose two models that were originally conceived to resolve different timescales are selected; XBeach as a storm model, and the new suite from Deltares, Delft3D-Flexible Mesh (D3D-FM) as a long-term morphodynamic model. The area selected as study site is Anmok beach, located at the east coast of South Korea. The coastal erosion at this location is not yet well understood (mainly due to human interventions and storms) plus the micro-tidal wave-dominated environment makes this location ideal for this study. Recent researches on this site have found that there is a delicate balance between the stormy and calm periods, where the high energy wave events are the main drivers of local morphology. One of the main findings in this thesis is that the coupling of independently calibrated models does not necessarily provide better morphodynamic results than the results obtained by running each model separately. Including different processes such as infragravity waves or Eulerian mass transport (which enhances the offshore sediment transport in the surf zone) during highly energetic events tend to generate large supratidal beach erosion. However, the post-storm recovery mechanisms present in long-term morphodynamic models are not sufficient to bring the sediment back to the beach. Therefore, it is recommended to include all the relevant physical processes (storm erosion and post storm recovery mechanisms) when following a coupling approach in order to have a coherent morphodynamic balance. Furthermore, the coupling of models can play an important role in identifying which processes are missing or are not fully represented by the different modelling packages. The erosive effect of cumulative storms was shown to be relevant in the short to medium term and might become a key parameter when defining, for instance, the worst case scenario regarding shoreline retreat. Despite the fact that uncoupled long-term morphodynamic models produce better average results in the case of Anmok beach, the implementation of a coupled scheme was proven to be important when the erosion due to cumulative storm effects cannot be neglected. Among the advantages of using D3D-FM for this work is the implementation of the Basic Model Interface, which meant an important reduction in bookkeeping efforts and the possibility to seamlessly couple D3D-FM with XBeach. This procedure allowed for the incorporation of more complex phenomena (such as infragravity waves) with an acceptable increase in computational time. A research version of Delft3D (D3D) with specialized sediment transport equations in the swash zone was tested in an attempt to enhance the post-storm recovery mechanisms. The results obtained are promising in the sense that the accretion of the shoreline and lower dry beach was reasonably enhanced, especially when considering all the limitations involved in modelling the morphodynamics of the swash zone with a stationary wave model. Another important conclusion is that these models were capable of depositing the sediments at the lower backshore at best. Hence, there is still the need of a mechanism/process capable of transporting the sediments farther upslope into the dry beach or dunes, such as aeolian transport. The decision to undergo with a coupled or uncoupled approach depends on case-by-case basis. For current practice, it is recommended to develop a coupled simulation in the medium-term, where both storms and calm periods have significant effects and where the intra seasonal variation could be a parameter of interest. For short-term simulations, an uncoupled storm model (e.g. XBeach) is recommended as is the most accurate for such a time span. For long-term simulations, the general recommendation is to run an uncoupled long-term model such as D3D. In this case the storm erosion and post-storm recovery processes are expected to average out, being the long-term model the most suitable package to obtain average morphological results. For future work it is recommended to add an aeolian process-based model and incorporate the swash zone sediment transport module into D3D-FM as this would move us one step closer towards the development of a fully coupled model where all the relevant processes (storm erosion, post storm recovery and aeolian transport) are included.

Waves in coastal waters play a role in forecasting storm conditions, as boundary conditions for the assessment of coastal risk and in coastal structure design. Assessment of their impact can be made through numerical modeling. In a forecasting context, the CPU time of the wave model is decisive in its suitability. Recent years wave model approaches have been to describe both linear and non-linear generation, dissipation and transfer processes in the wave spectrum explicitly. This resulted in computationally demanding tools. Such models are very suitable for research purposes or for design and assessment if time is available, but are rather heavy tools for forecasting applications on larger scales. Parametric models describe the wave spectrum through characteristics in a smaller solution space compared to spectral models, which makes them potentially faster solvers. In this thesis the suitability for forecasting of a spectrally integrated approach to the wave action balance is investigated. The stationary wave drivers from the storm impact assessment model XBeach were taken as a starting point. A second balance equation was identified to model the evolution of the mean period. In estuaries and behind shoals, locally generated waves can be dominant over offshore wave conditions. As part of the project, a wave generation mechanism is developed for the modified wave drivers based on prediction relations for growth of wind-waves under fetch-limited conditions. The two-equation approach was discretized and tested in a 1D Matlab model and the solution was proven to converge towards the literature prescribed growth curves for total wave energy and mean wave period. This approach was then implemented in the unstructured Frequency Integrated wave drivers in D-Flow FM. The implementation has been verified through semi-1D test cases and showed convergence behavior equal to the Matlab model. A hindcast of a 1982 storm in the Haringvliet was performed to compare the model skill of the unstructured frequency integrated model (FIM-FM) to the spectral wave model SWAN. In this hindcast the model skill of FIM-FM is comparable to SWAN for significant wave height and mean wave period for all locations apart from directly behind a shoal. Depth and wave height dependence of bottom friction coefficients should be studied in more validation cases to improve the prediction of wave steepening over shoals. Further research should also look into the iterative method in the solver for stationary solutions of the model equations to realize faster CPU time of a stationary problem. Although not established in this thesis, faster CPU time compared to a spectral model like SWAN should be possible based on the reduction of the solution space.