Cross-shore sand transport by infragravity waves as a function of beach steepness
J.C. de Bakker (LIENSs: Joint research unit CNRS and La Rochelle University, Universiteit Utrecht, TU Delft - Communication CiTG)
J. A. Brinkkemper (Universiteit Utrecht)
F. van der Steen (Universiteit Utrecht)
M.F.S. Tissier (TU Delft - Environmental Fluid Mechanics)
B. G. Ruessink (Universiteit Utrecht)
More Info
expand_more
Other than for strictly personal use, it is not permitted to download, forward or distribute the text or part of it, without the consent of the author(s) and/or copyright holder(s), unless the work is under an open content license such as Creative Commons.
Abstract
Two field data sets of near-bed velocity, pressure, and sediment concentration are analyzed to study the influence of infragravity waves on sand suspension and cross-shore transport. On the moderately sloping Sand Motor beach (≈1:35), the local ratio of infragravity wave height to sea-swell wave height is relatively small (HIG/HSW0. When the largest sea-swell waves are present during negative infragravity velocities (bound wave, negative correlation r0), most sand is suspended here, and the infragravity sand flux qIG is offshore. When r0 is positive, the largest sea-swell waves are present during positive infragravity velocities (free wave), and qIG is onshore directed. For both cases, the infragravity contribution to the total sand flux is, however, relatively small (IG/HSW>0.4), most sand is suspended during negative infragravity velocities, and qIG is offshore directed. The infragravity contribution to the total sand flux is considerably larger and reaches up to ≈60% during energetic conditions. On the whole, HIG/HSW is a good indicator for the infragravity-related sand suspension mechanism and the resulting infragravity sand transport direction and relative importance.
help_outline