Quantitative Morphological Analysis of Warp and Weft Yarns in Historical Woven Structures

Abstract

This research presents a set of methods for obtaining measurable data on yarns in historical textiles, addressing a gap in conservation and conservation science. A systematic analysis was conducted on 26 specimens, primarily from historical paintings of known provenance, all including a selvedge. Techniques for measuring crimp, twist, yarn width and yarn thickness were developed. Methods for the measurement of thread count, fabric thickness, weight, and pH are also discussed. By quantifying these characteristics, this study enhances our understanding of traditional textile production. Numerical data enable direct comparisons between different fabric structures and allow correlations with the tensile properties of historical textiles. Correlations have been established between the measured characteristics of the interlaced yarns and the warp and weft directions, which appear to be uncontroversial within this group of samples. This improves the ability to distinguish warp and weft in a textile when a selvedge is not available. The set of methods is largely non-destructive, as only a few yarns need to be extracted to measure their crimp and thickness. The data needed for textile engineering research are made available for historical woven structures, providing new opportunities for their analysis and for predictive digital simulation. The next steps in this ongoing research are to explore correlations between the measured characteristics and the tensile response of the analysed textiles, and to extend the study to a wider range of historical fabrics to obtain more broadly representative data.