Wave-Driven Set-Up of Fluid Mud

Abstract

Demak is a regency within the province of Central Java, Indonesia, with a mud-mangrove coast bordering the Java Sea. The region is facing a rapid retreat of the coastline, threatening the livelihood of a large part of the population. The main cause of the erosion is the deforestation of the green belt of mangroves. This has disturbed the delicate sediment balance in the area drastically. This MSc thesis was carried out within BioManCO. This is a project of Delft University of Technology and Universitas Diponegoro and aims to develop a bio-morphodynamic model for mangrove-mud coasts. This will eventually be used to identify the conditions under which autonomous reforestation of a sustainable mangrove green belt will take place, restoring the natural coastal protection. Semi-permeable dams are already being implemented to restore the sediment balance in the area. In this approach, however, the existence of a fluid mud layer is neglected. The observation of relatively steep slopes of the interface between mud and water indicates potential mud transport within the mud layer. Such a transport would contribute to the shoreward flux of sediment and thus to the restoration of the coastal profile. If a hybrid dam is implemented, it will block the flow of sediment and might therefore defy its own purpose; attenuating flow and waves in order to capture sediment and restore the eroded coastal profile. The objective of this thesis is to assess wave damping as a driving mechanism for set-up of the fluid mud layer at the coast of Demak and to identify under what conditions such a set-up can exist. Significant attenuation of waves can be achieved by viscous dissipation of wave energy in the mud layer. The set-up of the fluid mud interface is hypothesised to be balancing the wave force resulting from the reduction of wave energy in shoreward direction. To gain insight in the damping of waves and, more generally, in the dynamics of the coastal system of Demak, a field campaign has been carried out. Based on these measurements a SWAN-Mud model has been set up and has been coupled to an idealised model that calculates the equilibrium slope based on modelled wave-damping. The field observations show that the interface level is indeed sloping upwards towards the coast. This slope, however, does not seem to change significantly during the field campaign, indicating that the occurring waves are not able to move the layer. A strong daily variation in wave height and period, dependent on the prevailing wind system, is observed. SWAN-Mud is able to reproduce these measurements convincingly, even with the simple schematisation used in this thesis. The damping of the waves is influenced by the water depth and the wave period, and to a lesser extent by the wave height. It is also strongly dependent on the thickness and viscosity of the mud layer. The use of a fluid mud module to model the dissipation of waves at the coast of Demak is proven to be necessary. The developed conceptual model assumes a balance between the wave force in the mud layer and a pressure gradient due to a set-up of the fluid mud interface. This model shows that waves are able to force positive slopes in shoreward direction. However, for the range of mud parameters, water depths and wave characteristics as measured in Demak, these calculated slopes are too mild in comparison with the observed slopes. The adopted approach neglects the yield stress in the fluid mud layer. This internal strength might be able to balance and thus maintain the observed slopes after first being forced by the waves. Over time, this could lead to a build-up of sediment against the coast which could potentially be colonised and fixated by mangrove species. This build-up has a possible implication for the management of the coastal area of Demak. The hybrid dams might indeed be blocking a restoration mechanism of the mud coast which defies the original purpose of building these dams.