Boussinesq modelling of wave-induced horizontal particle velocities
J. Bosboom (TU Delft - Coastal Engineering, WL Delft Hydraulics)
G. Klopman (Student TU Delft, WL Delft Hydraulics)
D Roelvink (WL Delft Hydraulics, TU Delft - Coastal Engineering)
J. A. Battjes (TU Delft - Environmental Fluid Mechanics)
More Info
expand_more
Other than for strictly personal use, it is not permitted to download, forward or distribute the text or part of it, without the consent of the author(s) and/or copyright holder(s), unless the work is under an open content license such as Creative Commons.
Abstract
A frequency-domain Boussinesq model with good linear shoaling, improved linear dispersion characteristics and a dissipation formulation to account for wave breaking is extended to include the computation of the vertical structure of the horizontal velocity. The extended model is used to predict bottom velocities and resulting velocity variance and skewness in (partially) breaking irregular waves. The comparison of measured and computed velocity moments indicates that for moderately long waves the spectral Boussinesq model can be successfully used for sediment transport purposes. For shorter waves the crest velocity values of the higher waves are significantly underestimated, and as a result the velocity skewness as well.