Wave transformation over a barrier reef
Damien Sous (Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO), Laboratoire des Sciences de l'Ingénieur Appliquées à la Mécanique et au Génie Electrique (SIAME) - MIRA)
M.F.S. Tissier (TU Delft - Environmental Fluid Mechanics)
Vincent Rey (Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO))
Julien Touboul (Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO))
Frédéric Bouchette (ENS-PSL Research University & CNRS)
Jean Luc Devenon (Aix Marseille Université)
Cristele Chevalier (Aix Marseille Université)
Jerôme Aucan (IRD Institut de Recherche pour le Developpement)
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Abstract
This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined analysis of observations and numerical simulations shows that the reef barrier acts as an efficient, but depth-dependent, filter for incoming wave energy. The data analysis reveals the presence of very low frequency standing wave patterns due to reflection either at the reef barrier inner boundary or at the lagoon shore. Another striking feature is the development of undular bore trains over the reef flat.
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