Wave-averaged-energy transport, transformation to roler energy and generation of wave forces

In this text we will discuss the actions that were taken to solve the 2D surf beat equations which prescribe the forcing of waves through dissipation of short waves. The equations were solved by using and adapting the already available subroutines in TRISULA which are used there to solve the transport of pollutants. The variations in short wave...

Wave interaction with berm breakwaters

Wave interaction with berm breakwaters is studied by means of a physical model and a numerical model. The physical-model tests have been used to verify the wave motion as calculated by the numerical model. The numerical model based on finite-amplitude shallow-water wave equations is capable of simulating the wave motion both on and inside the...

Surf-Zone Hydrodynamics

Review paper on the recent progress in the field of wave modelling in the surf zone. The authors have the following concluding remarks (taken directly from the rapport): Wave breaking provides the forcing for larger scale motions in the surf zone. It is therefore probably both somewhat ironic as well as unfortunate that at the present time there...

Berm breakwater structures: Numerical simulation of breaking waves

A two-dimensional numerical model that can simulate plunging waves on permeable structures is described. The 'Volume Of Fluid' method is used to solve the incompressible Navier-Stokes equations (2DV). This enables simulations with very complex shapes of the free surface like those occurring in breaking waves. The model has been extended with...

Recent Italian Experience in the Design and Construction of Vertical Breakwaters

Italy is often considered as a mother country of vertical breakwaters for harbour protection, since they have been widely used all along our coasts long since. An updated location map is given in fig. 1, which also shows the position of the directional wave recording stations of the existing Italian network. The most common vertical breakwaters...

Wave Breaking

Water waves break as they advance over a gently sloping beach for all off-shore sea states except for the calmest conditions. Most theoretical, experimental and field studies have been directed to this type of wave breaking, yet waves can break with greater violence on steep slopes and close to coastal structures and cliffs. Further, on those...

Dissipation in random wave groups incident on a beach

The transformation of certain parameters of an incident random wave train across the surf zone has been the subject of much study and modelling effort. In recent literature, two classes of models have been developed, which are both based on the wave energy balance or the wave action equation, but use markedly different approaches. The main goal...

Evaluation of the field experiments in the surfzone near Egmond aan Zee

The present report gives a summary of all the data collected during the field campaign at the beach and in the nearshore zone near Egmond aan Zee, the Netherlands in 1990. The field experiments are executed with the overall goal to improve the knowledge of the processes which govern the depositional and erosional responses of the surfzone,...

Kinematics and Directionality of Waves in the Surf Zone

Realistic modelling of the internal kinematics of wind waves breaking on a beach is of great practical importance, e.g. for the modelling of coastal processes and for the design of coastal structures. A fundarnental aspect in this modelling concerns. the relation between the surface elevation and the internal kinematics. In this respect it...

Wave Attenuation and Wave Set-Up on a Coastal Reef

This study deals with the breaking of waves on coastal reefs, with special emphasis on energy dissipation (wave height attenuation), wave spectrum modification and the characteristics of wave set-up. It has an engineering perspective; its main objective is to provide the practicing engineer with much needed information on the design conditions...

Le pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes exposés à l'action de la houle

Cette Note fait suite à une communication préliminaire présentée à la Section d'Hydraulique fluviale et maritime de la Société Hydrotechnique de France. Elle expose un mode de calcul, en accord suffisant avec les données expérimentales, du pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes. Ce calcul, qui peut être fort abrégé· par l'emploi d' abaques...

Mouvements ondulatoires de la mer en profondeur constante ou décroissante

Dans cet exposé préliminaire, nous confronterons dans l’ordre ci-dessus, les faits avec les théories en cours, nous en indiquerons. quelque points faible et le améliorations ou compléments que nous entendons y apporter comme constituant le but de cette étude. Nous préciserons et justifierons le choix de méthodes de calcul et d'approximation...